Mr Venkatarayudu and I went for a short walk on the eastern side of Maitri, along the glacier on 21 Oct at 10am. It was a bright, sunny day with a light breeze blowing, sometimes picking up and causing us some inconvenience in the process. We intended to return soon.
We decided to explore some slopes of the glacier. At places huge chunks of the glacier had fallen away leaving behind a vertical icy cliff, overhanging at places. On either side of this vertical cliff was a relatively gradual slope along which sastrugis had formed due to snow deposition by the wind. These served as excellent steps to ascend the glacier. I went up one of these till I encountered ice. I ascended as much as I could before I felt the ice too slippery and steep. I thought it prudent to return.
We then continued east, till we saw a proglacial lake nearby. We had never seen that lake before and decided to explore. It was a banana shaped lake extending in an east- west direction. The southern half of the lake was frozen in a rippled manner like any other lake. But the northern half was smooth like glass, with not the slightest irregularity. One could easily play carom on that surface. Surprisingly the smooth half was not as slippery as the rippled half. One could easily run on it. The northern bank had an overhanging cliff, which probably had protected it from winds while the lake was freezing, leaving the corresponding half of the lake smooth. There was a small cave in the rocky cliff along the lake.
The western end of the lake merged into a circular lake that had also frozen in a similarly differential manner. The periphery was smooth like the banana shaped lake. But the centre was frozen in ripples. What was more astounding was that the centre was raised above the periphery by about half a meter. The centre of a lake usually freezes after the periphery. Also, water expands when it freezes. Hence, when the centre of this lake would have frozen, it would not have found adequate space to expand and had risen in this manner. We continued north across this lake. This lake continued as a frozen stream to a very small lake downhill. Surprisingly, the surface of this frozen stream was also smooth like glass, although it passed over rocks and descended quite steeply. This area was easily the most picturesque spot in whatever I have seen of Schirmacher oasis. Not even the ice caves rival it. It qualifies as a number one picnic spot. One can have lunch in the tiny cave along the banana shaped lake, or a glass of beer on the snowy southern bank or rather, on the lake itself while it is still frozen.
We then continued to the eastern end of the banana shaped lake, only to discover that it was connected to another lake behind a rocky ledge by a small stream. This lake was also a proglacial lake and was quite large and unremarkable.
As we continued further east along the glacier, we stumbled across another picturesque proglacial lake. This was as unique as the previous one. It was surrounded by the glacier on all sides except the western bank from where I was approaching. On the southern flank of the lake, the glacier rose steeply and very high. One had to strain ones neck to see the top of the glacier. There were numerous icicles dangling at various places. One of them was about 1 meter long. This glacier sloped downwards along the western flank of the lake to form a vertical wall surrounding the western and northern flanks of the lake. The centre of this lake was about 2 meters above the periphery. This was not surprising, considering the high, icy walls enclosing the lake. This lake had a menacing and strangely ferocious and inhospitable look to it. It was eerie. We spent some time exploring and taking photographs. Then we returned to Maitri. It was already 2pm by the time we reached back. We had spent 4 hours at lakes that were just 15 min away from Maitri. It speaks volumes about the beauty of these
Friday, October 31, 2008
Thursday, October 30, 2008
The Trishul Peak and The Long Lake
On 14th Oct, I planned a trek to the Trishul peak and the Long Lake along with Shuklaji. The Trishul is the highest peak in Schirmacher, though it is only about 300 meters above sea level. The Long Lake is supposedly the longest lake in Schirmacher at about 1.2 km. They both lie north- west of Maitri, close to each other.
We left at 10am under windy but sunny conditions. It was bit uncomfortable. But we decided to go anyways. We first crossed the Priyadarshani Lake to its western bank. The lake had now become very slippery due to the melting and refreezing in the October sun. One had to tread cautiously. We traversed through moraines and over the hills through rocky and snow slopes. We crossed numerous lakes on the way. When the lakes melt, we will have to skirt them and the distances will increase manifold. At places the snow was soft, but at most places, the snow was wind packed and hence almost as hard as ice. We reached the base of Trishul in about half and hour. Now the steep slopes of Trishul loomed in front of us. Since we were on the windward side, there was minimal snow deposition. The slope was largely rocky. Some rocks were huge boulders, but at many places there were loose stones. This made the climb treacherous. One had to have a good grip on at least 3 limbs before lifting the 4th limb. I also had my cameras to take care of. Shuklaji, being a “pahadi” person, climbed up like a mountain goat. I was huffing and puffing all the way, taking each step with extreme caution. The wind was not making life any easier. It pierced through my clothing like a thousand needles. The vapour from my breath froze in front of my nose and mouth on the balaclava. Finally, we reached the top. Just below the top, there was a huge boulder where we took refuge from the wind for a while. After a brief rest, we went to the peak, which had been marked with a wooden pole by one of the previous “explorers”. I managed to take a few snaps from the top, but my hands and my camera froze in the wind. It was a while before the sensation returned to my numb hands. Sweat made matters worse. All of Schirmacher was visible from the mountain top- the eastern end to the western extremity. Novo was also visible and appeared deceivingly close to Maitri. I quickly began my descent on the leeward side of Trishul. This was more difficult than the ascent, since most of the slope was covered with wind packed snow. It was dangerously slippery, with rocks jutting out menacingly. Shuklaji was already down by the time I had even started. I took each step with great caution, grasping rocks where ever I could. I took about half an hour to descend.
We now proceeded in the northerly direction to the Long Lake. This was an easy walk and took about 15 minutes. On the southern bank of the lake is a steep cliff towering high up. The northern bank is level. Standing in the middle of the lake, the huge expanse of blue ice all around presented an awesome sight. We rested for a while on a rock beside the lake and took in the views and the silence. Then we proceeded along the length of the lake in the easterly direction, and then back to Maitri along a different route. The round trip took us about 3 hours.
We left at 10am under windy but sunny conditions. It was bit uncomfortable. But we decided to go anyways. We first crossed the Priyadarshani Lake to its western bank. The lake had now become very slippery due to the melting and refreezing in the October sun. One had to tread cautiously. We traversed through moraines and over the hills through rocky and snow slopes. We crossed numerous lakes on the way. When the lakes melt, we will have to skirt them and the distances will increase manifold. At places the snow was soft, but at most places, the snow was wind packed and hence almost as hard as ice. We reached the base of Trishul in about half and hour. Now the steep slopes of Trishul loomed in front of us. Since we were on the windward side, there was minimal snow deposition. The slope was largely rocky. Some rocks were huge boulders, but at many places there were loose stones. This made the climb treacherous. One had to have a good grip on at least 3 limbs before lifting the 4th limb. I also had my cameras to take care of. Shuklaji, being a “pahadi” person, climbed up like a mountain goat. I was huffing and puffing all the way, taking each step with extreme caution. The wind was not making life any easier. It pierced through my clothing like a thousand needles. The vapour from my breath froze in front of my nose and mouth on the balaclava. Finally, we reached the top. Just below the top, there was a huge boulder where we took refuge from the wind for a while. After a brief rest, we went to the peak, which had been marked with a wooden pole by one of the previous “explorers”. I managed to take a few snaps from the top, but my hands and my camera froze in the wind. It was a while before the sensation returned to my numb hands. Sweat made matters worse. All of Schirmacher was visible from the mountain top- the eastern end to the western extremity. Novo was also visible and appeared deceivingly close to Maitri. I quickly began my descent on the leeward side of Trishul. This was more difficult than the ascent, since most of the slope was covered with wind packed snow. It was dangerously slippery, with rocks jutting out menacingly. Shuklaji was already down by the time I had even started. I took each step with great caution, grasping rocks where ever I could. I took about half an hour to descend.
We now proceeded in the northerly direction to the Long Lake. This was an easy walk and took about 15 minutes. On the southern bank of the lake is a steep cliff towering high up. The northern bank is level. Standing in the middle of the lake, the huge expanse of blue ice all around presented an awesome sight. We rested for a while on a rock beside the lake and took in the views and the silence. Then we proceeded along the length of the lake in the easterly direction, and then back to Maitri along a different route. The round trip took us about 3 hours.
Wednesday, October 29, 2008
Dakshin Gangotri Station
The following is an account of India’s history in Antarctica from the information I have gathered during my stay in Antarctica from various sources.
India launched its first Antarctic expedition in 1981. It was a summer expedition and was a brain child of Indira Gandhi, the then prime minister of our country. From then on, India has sent an expedition to Antarctica every year. The first wintering was in 1983 at the 1st Indian Antarctic station, Dakshin Gangotri, which is about 70km from Maitri.
The Indian expeditions were started with a scientific intent, unlike most other countries that have a claim over various regions of Antarctica. Since presence in Antarctica also has a strong political impact internationally, it is highly advantageous for India to have year round presence in Antarctica, especially with the continent suspected to have huge reserves of hydrocarbons. Mining is currently banned under the Antarctic treaty, but one never knows what’s going to happen in the future.
Unlike Maitri, Dakshin Gangotri was constructed on the ice shelf, 15km from the ocean. It was constructed on a raft foundation. It was much smaller than Maitri and 2 people had to share one room. Conditions were a lot tough then. Communication was limited to one liners exchanged from home about once or twice a month. There was no telephone connectivity. Now we are even about to get internet. Hence, wintering was a much more strenuous and commendable effort. The teams then had a huge contingent from the armed forces to look after the logistics. Since the station was on the ice shelf, there was no where to go for walks, no places around to explore. All around there was just an endless, featureless expanse of ice. Being closer to the sea, it experienced much more blizzards during the winters as well as summers. If Maitri experiences 20 blizzards a year, DG had 60. The minimum temperature experienced there was -55ºC. Hence, outdoor activities were limited to just a few hundred meters around the station. Many people did not venture out of the station during their entire stay.
Due to excessive snow deposition and also in large part due to repeated ice melting and refreezing in the summers, it slowly sank in the snow. During its final years, even the roof of the station was under the surface. The only access to the station was by a duct line passing through the snow. So it was like living in a virtual rat hole under the ground, with no doors or windows and a roof and walls of snow. This had an adverse psychological impact on many members. This was when the 2nd Indian Antarctic station was planned and Maitri was constructed in 1989. That was also the year of the last wintering at DG. It was the only year when there were 2 Indian wintering teams in Antarctica, one at Maitri and another at DG. The next year, DG sank deeper into the ice and had to be abandoned. A few porta cabins were, however, constructed there for the convoy team (the Indian shelf has since been shifted to the present location) as well as for scientific research during the summers. For the last 10 years, even those have been abandoned and DG now lies buried 60 meters under the snow, with no external sign of a station ever being there.
This is a problem with all Antarctic stations constructed on the ice shelf and various innovative techniques have been developed to handle the problem. The American south pole station, Amundsen- Scott, has been constructed about 7 times and the British station, Halley, on the Filchner ice shelf in the Weddel sea 5 times (these figures are approximate). The most popular innovation is to construct a station on stilts which can be jacked up every year to above the surface. This extends the life of a station by a few years, but ultimately the station does get buried under the ice and a new one has to be constructed. For this reason it is preferred to construct stations on exposed landmasses like Schirmacher oasis. However, exposed landmass constitutes only 2% of Antarcticas area. The rest is ice. So this is not always possible, more so for stations on the Antarctica plateau.
We have now come a long way since the days of DG. Facilities have improved markedly. Internet will reduce isolation to a great extent. India is also likely to launch a satellite in the near future that will also cater to our requirements in Antarctica. This will revolutionize telecommunication facilities. Flights have started operating to Dronning Maudland since 2002 during the summers. A few months back a test flight was successfully completed by the Americans during the polar night. This might open the doors for year round flights to Antarctica, at least to allow emergency evacuation on medical grounds. India now proposes to construct its 3rd Antarctic station at Larsemann Hills in the same longitude as India. It is likely to be completed by 2011. It will be an ultra modern facility, competing with the best in Antarctica. This year, India has also constructed its first year round station in the Arctic, named Himadri. We are truly progressing fast now.
India launched its first Antarctic expedition in 1981. It was a summer expedition and was a brain child of Indira Gandhi, the then prime minister of our country. From then on, India has sent an expedition to Antarctica every year. The first wintering was in 1983 at the 1st Indian Antarctic station, Dakshin Gangotri, which is about 70km from Maitri.
The Indian expeditions were started with a scientific intent, unlike most other countries that have a claim over various regions of Antarctica. Since presence in Antarctica also has a strong political impact internationally, it is highly advantageous for India to have year round presence in Antarctica, especially with the continent suspected to have huge reserves of hydrocarbons. Mining is currently banned under the Antarctic treaty, but one never knows what’s going to happen in the future.
Unlike Maitri, Dakshin Gangotri was constructed on the ice shelf, 15km from the ocean. It was constructed on a raft foundation. It was much smaller than Maitri and 2 people had to share one room. Conditions were a lot tough then. Communication was limited to one liners exchanged from home about once or twice a month. There was no telephone connectivity. Now we are even about to get internet. Hence, wintering was a much more strenuous and commendable effort. The teams then had a huge contingent from the armed forces to look after the logistics. Since the station was on the ice shelf, there was no where to go for walks, no places around to explore. All around there was just an endless, featureless expanse of ice. Being closer to the sea, it experienced much more blizzards during the winters as well as summers. If Maitri experiences 20 blizzards a year, DG had 60. The minimum temperature experienced there was -55ºC. Hence, outdoor activities were limited to just a few hundred meters around the station. Many people did not venture out of the station during their entire stay.
Due to excessive snow deposition and also in large part due to repeated ice melting and refreezing in the summers, it slowly sank in the snow. During its final years, even the roof of the station was under the surface. The only access to the station was by a duct line passing through the snow. So it was like living in a virtual rat hole under the ground, with no doors or windows and a roof and walls of snow. This had an adverse psychological impact on many members. This was when the 2nd Indian Antarctic station was planned and Maitri was constructed in 1989. That was also the year of the last wintering at DG. It was the only year when there were 2 Indian wintering teams in Antarctica, one at Maitri and another at DG. The next year, DG sank deeper into the ice and had to be abandoned. A few porta cabins were, however, constructed there for the convoy team (the Indian shelf has since been shifted to the present location) as well as for scientific research during the summers. For the last 10 years, even those have been abandoned and DG now lies buried 60 meters under the snow, with no external sign of a station ever being there.
This is a problem with all Antarctic stations constructed on the ice shelf and various innovative techniques have been developed to handle the problem. The American south pole station, Amundsen- Scott, has been constructed about 7 times and the British station, Halley, on the Filchner ice shelf in the Weddel sea 5 times (these figures are approximate). The most popular innovation is to construct a station on stilts which can be jacked up every year to above the surface. This extends the life of a station by a few years, but ultimately the station does get buried under the ice and a new one has to be constructed. For this reason it is preferred to construct stations on exposed landmasses like Schirmacher oasis. However, exposed landmass constitutes only 2% of Antarcticas area. The rest is ice. So this is not always possible, more so for stations on the Antarctica plateau.
We have now come a long way since the days of DG. Facilities have improved markedly. Internet will reduce isolation to a great extent. India is also likely to launch a satellite in the near future that will also cater to our requirements in Antarctica. This will revolutionize telecommunication facilities. Flights have started operating to Dronning Maudland since 2002 during the summers. A few months back a test flight was successfully completed by the Americans during the polar night. This might open the doors for year round flights to Antarctica, at least to allow emergency evacuation on medical grounds. India now proposes to construct its 3rd Antarctic station at Larsemann Hills in the same longitude as India. It is likely to be completed by 2011. It will be an ultra modern facility, competing with the best in Antarctica. This year, India has also constructed its first year round station in the Arctic, named Himadri. We are truly progressing fast now.
Tuesday, October 28, 2008
The Gang Returns
They have finally returned, signalling onset of summers. The snow petrels, the skuas and the penguins- they are all back. So Antarctica is lively again with life.
We first saw the snow petrels on 10th Oct during the convoy as mentioned in one of my earlier posts. They are now a regular feature here as well as at the shelf. During the last convoy, which was from 15 Oct to 20 Oct 2008, they were seen hovering all over our containers and our vehicles. They were to be found in groups, busy with each other, and diving all over the place.
During the same convoy, we also saw the first of our penguins- the trademark of any trip to Antarctica. You have not seen Antarctica if you haven't seen the penguins. On 18th Oct, I had gone for a walk to the edge of the ice shelf, from where the ocean begins. It was a steep, over hanging ice cliff, with a moat formed on the pack ice along the icy outcrop. I suddenly heard a squawking sound coming from that area. It was surely a bird's call, but I wasn't sure if it was the penguin, the snow petrel or the skua. The sound was coming intermittently. I could not see any bird around. I searched for about 15 minutes, and then the bird calls stopped. I turned back and returned to the Banjara. Sometime later, a few of the convoy team members returned to the Banjara and asked me if I took any photographs of the penguins. "What penguins?" I asked, surprised. "The ones that were following you." came the reply. "What are you talking about?" I asked. "Arre saab, jab aap ice shelf se waapas aa rahe they tab 2 penguins aapke peechhe peechhe aa rahi thi. Aapne dekha nahin?" I initially thought that they were pulling a fast one on me. But then I realised that they were saying the truth. How could I miss the penguins of all the things, that too when they were following me. But the damage had been done. Mariappan had photographed them and ran after them. They got frightened, and ran inland. They ran fast enough to outrun a man. "They must be going to Maitri since their breeding season is about to begin." we thought. They were a pair of Adelie penguins, the most common species of penguins found in our part of Antarctica. Well.. better luck next time... they will soon be swarming at penguin rookeries around Schirmacher.
When we returned to Maitri, we were informed that the skua had also returned on 18th Oct. This was the same skua that was born here last year. We could make that out from its dark brown plume of feathers. He was also the last skua to leave Maitri in April. Its sibling had dies soon after birth. This one has parked itself right outside the station building and basks in the sun all day long. There is no melt water to drink yet. So it is often seen pecking at the snow outside the station. The departure & arrival of the skua is a major event in the Maitri calendar. It was a mixed feeling, since the same old cycle of survival of the fittest will now begin. The food chain is now complete- the skua feeds on both, the snow petrels as well as the penguins. So there's a bloody summer ahead of us.
The 7th convoy was unique in many ways. It was the last convoy of our expedition. The last lot of containers were brought back to the station. It was also the longest, since the cranes at India Bay had to be repaired; the empty containers also had to be arranged in an organised manner in order to prepare for handing over to the next team. The convoy lasted 6 days in all. The weather was mostly sunny but rather windy. There is no period of total darkness now. The sun rises at 2:25am and sets at 7:30pm. This is followed by dusk till about 11:30pm, thereafter, the glow of the sun is visible in the south east. So on our way back, there was sunshine all the way. This was the first time we reached the station is broad daylight. We wore our sunglasses all the way back, unlike the previous convoys, when we struggled to reach the station in total darkness.
At the ice shelf, there used to be a thick layer of snow. But this time there were big patches of blue ice visible. The snow had either melted away or had been blown away with the wind. The snow, wherever present, was extremely hard because of windpacking. The sun's radiation is now so strong that one can feel the heat when it falls on one's face, even though the air temperature is around -18ºC. Vast areas of exposed ice are also visible near Shivling, where there was a uniform blanket of snow just a few days back. I hope there is no excessive ice melt like last year. It might cause problems for the next team during the convoys.
The icebergs presented a very pretty sight this time around. Around 50 icebergs grounded in the fast ice are visible from the ice shelf all along the horizon. The rays of the early morning sun accentuated the contours and the contrasts. It was a very photogenic scene.
The crevasses have started to open up as well, both at the shelf as well as around Maitri. Many a times my foot sank into one of those crevasses covered by a thin layer of snow. Though most of these crevasses are not large enough to swallow a vehicle or a man, they can surely lead to a few broken bones.
The lakes around Maitri too have become very slippery due to the repeated melting and freezing of ice. So we have to watch our step. They are still strong enough to allow a vehicle to pass over them.
We still have to do a joint convoy with the next team to train them.
We first saw the snow petrels on 10th Oct during the convoy as mentioned in one of my earlier posts. They are now a regular feature here as well as at the shelf. During the last convoy, which was from 15 Oct to 20 Oct 2008, they were seen hovering all over our containers and our vehicles. They were to be found in groups, busy with each other, and diving all over the place.
During the same convoy, we also saw the first of our penguins- the trademark of any trip to Antarctica. You have not seen Antarctica if you haven't seen the penguins. On 18th Oct, I had gone for a walk to the edge of the ice shelf, from where the ocean begins. It was a steep, over hanging ice cliff, with a moat formed on the pack ice along the icy outcrop. I suddenly heard a squawking sound coming from that area. It was surely a bird's call, but I wasn't sure if it was the penguin, the snow petrel or the skua. The sound was coming intermittently. I could not see any bird around. I searched for about 15 minutes, and then the bird calls stopped. I turned back and returned to the Banjara. Sometime later, a few of the convoy team members returned to the Banjara and asked me if I took any photographs of the penguins. "What penguins?" I asked, surprised. "The ones that were following you." came the reply. "What are you talking about?" I asked. "Arre saab, jab aap ice shelf se waapas aa rahe they tab 2 penguins aapke peechhe peechhe aa rahi thi. Aapne dekha nahin?" I initially thought that they were pulling a fast one on me. But then I realised that they were saying the truth. How could I miss the penguins of all the things, that too when they were following me. But the damage had been done. Mariappan had photographed them and ran after them. They got frightened, and ran inland. They ran fast enough to outrun a man. "They must be going to Maitri since their breeding season is about to begin." we thought. They were a pair of Adelie penguins, the most common species of penguins found in our part of Antarctica. Well.. better luck next time... they will soon be swarming at penguin rookeries around Schirmacher.
When we returned to Maitri, we were informed that the skua had also returned on 18th Oct. This was the same skua that was born here last year. We could make that out from its dark brown plume of feathers. He was also the last skua to leave Maitri in April. Its sibling had dies soon after birth. This one has parked itself right outside the station building and basks in the sun all day long. There is no melt water to drink yet. So it is often seen pecking at the snow outside the station. The departure & arrival of the skua is a major event in the Maitri calendar. It was a mixed feeling, since the same old cycle of survival of the fittest will now begin. The food chain is now complete- the skua feeds on both, the snow petrels as well as the penguins. So there's a bloody summer ahead of us.
The 7th convoy was unique in many ways. It was the last convoy of our expedition. The last lot of containers were brought back to the station. It was also the longest, since the cranes at India Bay had to be repaired; the empty containers also had to be arranged in an organised manner in order to prepare for handing over to the next team. The convoy lasted 6 days in all. The weather was mostly sunny but rather windy. There is no period of total darkness now. The sun rises at 2:25am and sets at 7:30pm. This is followed by dusk till about 11:30pm, thereafter, the glow of the sun is visible in the south east. So on our way back, there was sunshine all the way. This was the first time we reached the station is broad daylight. We wore our sunglasses all the way back, unlike the previous convoys, when we struggled to reach the station in total darkness.
At the ice shelf, there used to be a thick layer of snow. But this time there were big patches of blue ice visible. The snow had either melted away or had been blown away with the wind. The snow, wherever present, was extremely hard because of windpacking. The sun's radiation is now so strong that one can feel the heat when it falls on one's face, even though the air temperature is around -18ºC. Vast areas of exposed ice are also visible near Shivling, where there was a uniform blanket of snow just a few days back. I hope there is no excessive ice melt like last year. It might cause problems for the next team during the convoys.
The icebergs presented a very pretty sight this time around. Around 50 icebergs grounded in the fast ice are visible from the ice shelf all along the horizon. The rays of the early morning sun accentuated the contours and the contrasts. It was a very photogenic scene.
The crevasses have started to open up as well, both at the shelf as well as around Maitri. Many a times my foot sank into one of those crevasses covered by a thin layer of snow. Though most of these crevasses are not large enough to swallow a vehicle or a man, they can surely lead to a few broken bones.
The lakes around Maitri too have become very slippery due to the repeated melting and freezing of ice. So we have to watch our step. They are still strong enough to allow a vehicle to pass over them.
We still have to do a joint convoy with the next team to train them.
Friday, October 24, 2008
The Ugly Face of Antarctica
All my posts till date have described the beautiful face of Antarctica, nature and the pleasant experiences we have had here. But things are not as rosy and as easy. This is the most remote and inhospitable place on earth. Life here is a daily struggle. When things go wrong, one does not have access to help from outside. The team members themselves have to handle the situation to the best of their capabilities or perish. This post is about the most dreaded and omnipresent threat in Antarctica- fire.
In the extremely dry, oxygen rich atmosphere here, fire can only be prevented and not put out. Even the most advanced fire fighting equipments will prove insufficient because by the time one gets to the fire, it would be a roaring inferno and cause destruction in quick time. The extremely windy conditions aid the spread of fire.
A cruel reminder of this was served to us a few days back when we received news that a fire had broken out at Progress- the Russian Antarctic Station at Larsemann Hills, close to the site of the proposed 2nd Indian Antarctic Station. The entire double storey living block was burnt down, leading to the loss on one life and 2 casualties. I am not aware of the cause of fire, but it could not be controlled in time and spread very fast. Their communication facilities were also destroyed in the fire. Hence they are totally cut off from the world. Personnel from the nearby Chinese Station, Zhongshan helped out the Russians. Since the flights have not yet resumed, the injured personnel cannot be evacuated nor can the dead person’s body be taken back till November. Special flights are being planned for evacuation. Had such a thing happened in the beginning of winters, they would have been stuck up for 6 months. This mishap has left everyone at Maitri in a state of shock as this can very well happen here.
It because of this omnipresent danger that most modern stations consist of blocks widely separated from each other. This prevents the entire station from getting burnt down in case of fire. The Progress station also probably consists of blocks. Hence their food and medical equipment were spared.
In the extremely dry, oxygen rich atmosphere here, fire can only be prevented and not put out. Even the most advanced fire fighting equipments will prove insufficient because by the time one gets to the fire, it would be a roaring inferno and cause destruction in quick time. The extremely windy conditions aid the spread of fire.
A cruel reminder of this was served to us a few days back when we received news that a fire had broken out at Progress- the Russian Antarctic Station at Larsemann Hills, close to the site of the proposed 2nd Indian Antarctic Station. The entire double storey living block was burnt down, leading to the loss on one life and 2 casualties. I am not aware of the cause of fire, but it could not be controlled in time and spread very fast. Their communication facilities were also destroyed in the fire. Hence they are totally cut off from the world. Personnel from the nearby Chinese Station, Zhongshan helped out the Russians. Since the flights have not yet resumed, the injured personnel cannot be evacuated nor can the dead person’s body be taken back till November. Special flights are being planned for evacuation. Had such a thing happened in the beginning of winters, they would have been stuck up for 6 months. This mishap has left everyone at Maitri in a state of shock as this can very well happen here.
It because of this omnipresent danger that most modern stations consist of blocks widely separated from each other. This prevents the entire station from getting burnt down in case of fire. The Progress station also probably consists of blocks. Hence their food and medical equipment were spared.
Wednesday, October 22, 2008
The First Sign of Life
It has been 6 months now since we saw a living creature. It was just snow and ice all around. We longed to see something that had life- a bird, a blade of grass, an insect, a four legged being- anything. Even those mosquitoes and cockroaches that made life miserable for us back home would have been welcome. In fact, when we did find a half dead insect during the polar night in one of rooms here, the whole station went berserk photographing it and fiddling with it. It still remains a mystery as to how it survived for so long.
Our sore eyes were soon treated to a feast on 10th Oct 2008, the day the 6th convoy was to leave for Maitri. While hooking one of the trailers, I noticed about 10 birds hovering above one of the containers. There was a blizzard going on. But the birds did not appear to be in any kind of discomfort. They were diving around comfortably. Being pure white, I identified them as snow petrels. I shouted at the others to have a look. I also informed all on the walkie talkie. The snow petrels soon became the centre of attraction, before they flew away.
I had expected to find some living creatures on the shelf this time around. I wanted to see the penguins. But I was disappointed when I did not sight any. They will be here sooner rather than later.
On returning to Maitri, we were told that a group of 30 snow petrels had been sighted here as well. They were flying due north. They were in all probability flying from the Wolthat Mountains, 100 km south of Maitri, where they nest. They were flying towards the ocean to gather food.
This is only the beginning. By the time the week is over, we expect the skuas and the most adorable beings on earth- penguins to be here. We will soon have a lot of company.
Our sore eyes were soon treated to a feast on 10th Oct 2008, the day the 6th convoy was to leave for Maitri. While hooking one of the trailers, I noticed about 10 birds hovering above one of the containers. There was a blizzard going on. But the birds did not appear to be in any kind of discomfort. They were diving around comfortably. Being pure white, I identified them as snow petrels. I shouted at the others to have a look. I also informed all on the walkie talkie. The snow petrels soon became the centre of attraction, before they flew away.
I had expected to find some living creatures on the shelf this time around. I wanted to see the penguins. But I was disappointed when I did not sight any. They will be here sooner rather than later.
On returning to Maitri, we were told that a group of 30 snow petrels had been sighted here as well. They were flying due north. They were in all probability flying from the Wolthat Mountains, 100 km south of Maitri, where they nest. They were flying towards the ocean to gather food.
This is only the beginning. By the time the week is over, we expect the skuas and the most adorable beings on earth- penguins to be here. We will soon have a lot of company.
Tuesday, October 21, 2008
The Blizzard Convoy- The Best Journey of my Life
We woke up early on 10th Oct since the plan was to leave at 6AM. But there was a heavy snow drift going on. It soon strengthened into a blizzard. There was a lot of discussion about the plan of action and whether we should leave or stay on till the weather clears. It we decide to stay, there is no telling how long we will have to stay- days, maybe even weeks. If we leave, we must be prepared for a tough time. Blizzards are always severe and frequent on the shelf. As we go inland, the intensity decreases. This is expected after C7, when soft snow is less and blue ice is more. Keeping this fact in mind, we decided to leave now. If there was any trouble enroute, we can always halt anywhere. So finally we wound up the Banjara and departed at 8am. Visibility was reduced to just a few meters. We were totally dependant on the GPS for navigation. The track marks and the route markers were lost to view. One could not differentiate between the ground and the sky. It was as if we were driving into the white counterpart of a black hole. We had to keep the vehicle in front in view to ensure that we did not get left behind. There was also a risk of ramming into the vehicle in front. For these reasons, we did not deviate one bit from the route shown on the GPS. All the vehicles were carrying 20 tonnes of load each and we were driving on soft snow. Hence the tracks of the vehicles sank in the snow. Progress was terribly slow. Had we taken the right decision?
We had doubts when the fan belt of one of the vehicles broke. Under normal circumstances this would have been a minor problem. But in a blizzard of this intensity, repairing anything was a major undertaking. Grudgingly, people left their vehicles and got about repairing it. After about 2 hours of stumbling and fumbling, the fan belt was replaced. When the logistics personnel returned to their vehicles, they were looking more like yetis than humans- covered with snow from head to toe, and shivering terribly. We first warmed ourselves in our vehicles then moved on. Further vehicle breakdowns were the last thing we wanted- at least not today. The convoy crawled ahead steadily. We were in constant touch with each other to ensure that no one got left behind and that no one deviated from the track. The vehicles were all huddled close. The order in which the vehicles would move was strictly followed.
As usual, I was in the same vehicle as Mr Jamwal. We were driving due south. The wind was blowing from the east. The driver’s seat was on the left. So it was on the same side as the direction of the wind. The wind was so strong that snow was percolating through minor defects in the beading of the door on Jamwal’s side. Because of this, frost formed repeatedly on the windscreen inspite of the heater. Ice also formed on the door. Water was dripping on Jamwal’s dangri. It froze as soon as it fell. So his dangri was full of ice. He had to repeatedly scrap the ice from the wind screen to keep the view clear. Pretty soon so much ice formed on his door that it virtually sealed it off. Snow stopped percolating inside. He did not open the door after that. Whenever he had to go out, he did so from my side. The door on my side was on the leeward side. So snow accumulated outside my window. On coming in touch with the window, the snow melted because the cabin was heated from inside. But it soon refroze. So ice formed outside my door also. The ice broke under its own weight and reformed. Ice had also formed on the door knob outside. It was very hard and could not be broken. So whenever I left the vehicle, Jamwal had to hop over the instrument panels and open the door from inside before I could enter.
We reached C7 in about 4 hours. But we got no respite from the blizzard. We next aimed for B17. The soft ice decreases further beyond that. But there was no such luck. The visibility was getting poorer with each passing hour. At one stage it was so bad that we could not see the vehicle directly in front of us. Just a faint shadow of the vehicle was visible. We hung on to the GPS for dear life, not taking our eyes off it for a moment. The decision to move ahead seemed to have been a pathetically bad one at this stage. It would have been wise to stay at the shelf till the conditions improved. But now we had to move on. Stopping now would have been a Herculean task. Setting up the Banjara and Jeevan Jyoti and then winding them up again before leaving was a 6 hour job. So halting now was to be considered only when there was a vehicular breakdown. The vehicles had to be refuelled twice under such conditions. More snow that ATF went inside the tanks.
We were now able to contact Maitri. We were told that there was only a snow drift at Maitri. That meant that as we got closer to Maitri, the conditions would surely improve. We soldiered on in that hope. Beyond A21, there is only minimal soft snow. We expected the situation to surely improve beyond. But the route from B10 to A20 is a crevasse area and is extremely uneven since there is a gradual descent. We were not able to see the fissures in the blue ice. So we got some very nasty jerks here. There was a danger that the hook of the vehicle would break if the trailers were jerked so badly. But luckily nothing of that sort happened.
We reached A20 at 6pm. The conditions improved drastically here. The blizzard gave way to a snow drift and visibility improved significantly. We were very comfortable now. But the wind was still as strong as before. We made rapid progress from here on.
We reached Sankalp at 12midnight. There was no drift here. All the trailers were unhooked here. We finally reached Maitri at 1:30am on 11th Oct, and collapsed into bed. It was a valiant effort under the most testing conditions. The men and their machines had stood upto the challenge.
We had doubts when the fan belt of one of the vehicles broke. Under normal circumstances this would have been a minor problem. But in a blizzard of this intensity, repairing anything was a major undertaking. Grudgingly, people left their vehicles and got about repairing it. After about 2 hours of stumbling and fumbling, the fan belt was replaced. When the logistics personnel returned to their vehicles, they were looking more like yetis than humans- covered with snow from head to toe, and shivering terribly. We first warmed ourselves in our vehicles then moved on. Further vehicle breakdowns were the last thing we wanted- at least not today. The convoy crawled ahead steadily. We were in constant touch with each other to ensure that no one got left behind and that no one deviated from the track. The vehicles were all huddled close. The order in which the vehicles would move was strictly followed.
As usual, I was in the same vehicle as Mr Jamwal. We were driving due south. The wind was blowing from the east. The driver’s seat was on the left. So it was on the same side as the direction of the wind. The wind was so strong that snow was percolating through minor defects in the beading of the door on Jamwal’s side. Because of this, frost formed repeatedly on the windscreen inspite of the heater. Ice also formed on the door. Water was dripping on Jamwal’s dangri. It froze as soon as it fell. So his dangri was full of ice. He had to repeatedly scrap the ice from the wind screen to keep the view clear. Pretty soon so much ice formed on his door that it virtually sealed it off. Snow stopped percolating inside. He did not open the door after that. Whenever he had to go out, he did so from my side. The door on my side was on the leeward side. So snow accumulated outside my window. On coming in touch with the window, the snow melted because the cabin was heated from inside. But it soon refroze. So ice formed outside my door also. The ice broke under its own weight and reformed. Ice had also formed on the door knob outside. It was very hard and could not be broken. So whenever I left the vehicle, Jamwal had to hop over the instrument panels and open the door from inside before I could enter.
We reached C7 in about 4 hours. But we got no respite from the blizzard. We next aimed for B17. The soft ice decreases further beyond that. But there was no such luck. The visibility was getting poorer with each passing hour. At one stage it was so bad that we could not see the vehicle directly in front of us. Just a faint shadow of the vehicle was visible. We hung on to the GPS for dear life, not taking our eyes off it for a moment. The decision to move ahead seemed to have been a pathetically bad one at this stage. It would have been wise to stay at the shelf till the conditions improved. But now we had to move on. Stopping now would have been a Herculean task. Setting up the Banjara and Jeevan Jyoti and then winding them up again before leaving was a 6 hour job. So halting now was to be considered only when there was a vehicular breakdown. The vehicles had to be refuelled twice under such conditions. More snow that ATF went inside the tanks.
We were now able to contact Maitri. We were told that there was only a snow drift at Maitri. That meant that as we got closer to Maitri, the conditions would surely improve. We soldiered on in that hope. Beyond A21, there is only minimal soft snow. We expected the situation to surely improve beyond. But the route from B10 to A20 is a crevasse area and is extremely uneven since there is a gradual descent. We were not able to see the fissures in the blue ice. So we got some very nasty jerks here. There was a danger that the hook of the vehicle would break if the trailers were jerked so badly. But luckily nothing of that sort happened.
We reached A20 at 6pm. The conditions improved drastically here. The blizzard gave way to a snow drift and visibility improved significantly. We were very comfortable now. But the wind was still as strong as before. We made rapid progress from here on.
We reached Sankalp at 12midnight. There was no drift here. All the trailers were unhooked here. We finally reached Maitri at 1:30am on 11th Oct, and collapsed into bed. It was a valiant effort under the most testing conditions. The men and their machines had stood upto the challenge.
Wednesday, October 15, 2008
The Blizzard Convoy- A Clear Day
Just when we were expecting the blizzard to continue for a few days and were mentally prepared for a long haul, we got an unexpected gift from the heavens- he weather cleared up on 9th Oct. The day was as beautiful as the day we left Maitri. There was bright sunshine with zero wind. Working outside was a pleasurable experience. To our surprise, we were unexpectedly close to our destination. So we did not have to move. This was also a fuel convoy. So the logistics personnel got busy with decanting job. Mr Gudade went to the porta cabin where his experiment was running. I joined him after finishing the cleanup job in the Banjara. I later took him around the shelf, to the containers, oil tankers (a few of these were completely buried in the snow after the blizzard the day before) and finally to the ocean. These were the only ‘tourist spots’ nearby. He later went back to the porta cabin to finish of his pending work and I trekked back 2 km to the Banjara. At places, the snow was extremely hard and polished because of the wind action. It looked like snow, but was a cross between snow and ice. It was dangerous because you took it to be snow but ended up slipping badly. No footprints were seen on this snow.
The logistics team was able to finish off the work comfortably. The vehicles were prepared for departure early on 10th Oct. We went to bed that night unaware of what lay ahead and how nature had fooled us.
The logistics team was able to finish off the work comfortably. The vehicles were prepared for departure early on 10th Oct. We went to bed that night unaware of what lay ahead and how nature had fooled us.
Tuesday, October 14, 2008
The Blizzard Convoy- Twiddling our Thumbs
The next day, the blizzard was continuing as ferociously as ever. So we all woke up late & the day passed lazily- chatting, reading, playing cards, sleeping- in short, twiddling our thumbs. Some of us tried our hand oat cooking. So freshly cooked rice, alu matar & chappatis we churned out instead of precooked food. Regular trips were made to the Jeevan Jyoti to keep a watch on its functioning. We also went out repeatedly to collect snow for melting. This helped us in stretching our limbs and clearing our minds. It was very frustrating sitting inside with hardly any moving space.
We were no longer able to communicate with Maitri as the radios were out of range. So we were now truly isolated. Maitri would not be aware of our plight
We were no longer able to communicate with Maitri as the radios were out of range. So we were now truly isolated. Maitri would not be aware of our plight
Monday, October 13, 2008
The Blizzard Convoy- Ran into a White Wall
Another convoy just came to a close. We left on 7th Oct 2008 and returned on 11th Oct 2008 after a mind boggling adventure.
The last few days before we left were very cloudy & very windy. The weather chart from Pretoria showed a huge low pressure system approaching us. It promised a good blizzard. But it weakened and was passing us up north. The convoy which was scheduled to leave on 6th Oct had to be postponed till the weather cleared. It finally cleared on 7th Oct & beautifully so. So we left on 7th Oct at 5AM. Mr Gudade, who is here for a geomagnetism experiment, accompanied us since he had to attend to the automated geomagnetism experiment running at the ice shelf. The conditions were perfect for a convoy- clear sky, absolutely no wind. We did not even need to wear gloves & balaclava for most of the journey. The temperature was comfortable at -18ºC after the -30s witnessed during the earlier convoys. The latest weather chart promised a clear day unless the low pressure system migrated south.
We were cruising along when we saw the first warning signs- cirrus clouds, those feather shaped clouds streaking across the sky. These are considered to be precursors to bad weather. We, however, pressed on towards India Bay. Gradually, it became cloudy & windy. We had already reached C group of barrels by now. We knew what lay ahead. But the only choice we had was to move ahead. The wind picked up as we moved on. By the time we reached barrel C14, it had already reached gale force. Snow drift started by the time we reached C17, about 20km ahead. After C18, the visibility reduced significantly. We were in the midst of a full fledged blizzard. It was now getting dark as well. We were following the tail lights of the vehicle ahead of us. The shelf was just 5km away. That meant a journey of another half an hour. So we soldiered on.
Just one km short of India Bay, visibility fell to zero and forward progress was highly dangerous, considering that the sea was just another 1 km away. These were total white out conditions. Even the tail lights of the vehicle ahead were not visible. The blinkers of some vehicles were barely seen. Though we had the GPS for navigation, but it was not possible to see the undulations in the snow and there was also the danger of ramming into the vehicle ahead of us, or getting left behind. Hence the decision was taken to camp where we were till the conditions improve.
All the vehicles were parked one by one alongside each other, facing the blizzard head on. This was done to minimize snow deposition around the vehicle. The vehicles were parked some distance away from each other for the same reason. Next, we were asked to proceed towards the Banjara one by one, starting from the vehicle furthest away. So Jamwal and I turned off our vehicle, collected our kitbags and proceeded towards Gaffar’s vehicle. Six inches of snow had already piled up in front of the vehicle’s blades in a matter of five minutes. We picked up Gaffar and stumbled to the next vehicle and so on till we reached the Banjara. Climbing the stairs of the Banjara was a difficult task since the wind was throwing us off- balance. The Banjara was connected to Jeevan Jyoti and all our rations were shifted in quick time. We made ourselves at home. We had a feeling that it would be a long wait before we could resume our work on the shelf.
As we went to sleep at night, the Banjara was rocking ominously in the roaring wind. It felt as if we are inside a train that is not going anywhere. The melting frost dripped on us throughout the night, as we slept fitfully.
The last few days before we left were very cloudy & very windy. The weather chart from Pretoria showed a huge low pressure system approaching us. It promised a good blizzard. But it weakened and was passing us up north. The convoy which was scheduled to leave on 6th Oct had to be postponed till the weather cleared. It finally cleared on 7th Oct & beautifully so. So we left on 7th Oct at 5AM. Mr Gudade, who is here for a geomagnetism experiment, accompanied us since he had to attend to the automated geomagnetism experiment running at the ice shelf. The conditions were perfect for a convoy- clear sky, absolutely no wind. We did not even need to wear gloves & balaclava for most of the journey. The temperature was comfortable at -18ºC after the -30s witnessed during the earlier convoys. The latest weather chart promised a clear day unless the low pressure system migrated south.
We were cruising along when we saw the first warning signs- cirrus clouds, those feather shaped clouds streaking across the sky. These are considered to be precursors to bad weather. We, however, pressed on towards India Bay. Gradually, it became cloudy & windy. We had already reached C group of barrels by now. We knew what lay ahead. But the only choice we had was to move ahead. The wind picked up as we moved on. By the time we reached barrel C14, it had already reached gale force. Snow drift started by the time we reached C17, about 20km ahead. After C18, the visibility reduced significantly. We were in the midst of a full fledged blizzard. It was now getting dark as well. We were following the tail lights of the vehicle ahead of us. The shelf was just 5km away. That meant a journey of another half an hour. So we soldiered on.
Just one km short of India Bay, visibility fell to zero and forward progress was highly dangerous, considering that the sea was just another 1 km away. These were total white out conditions. Even the tail lights of the vehicle ahead were not visible. The blinkers of some vehicles were barely seen. Though we had the GPS for navigation, but it was not possible to see the undulations in the snow and there was also the danger of ramming into the vehicle ahead of us, or getting left behind. Hence the decision was taken to camp where we were till the conditions improve.
All the vehicles were parked one by one alongside each other, facing the blizzard head on. This was done to minimize snow deposition around the vehicle. The vehicles were parked some distance away from each other for the same reason. Next, we were asked to proceed towards the Banjara one by one, starting from the vehicle furthest away. So Jamwal and I turned off our vehicle, collected our kitbags and proceeded towards Gaffar’s vehicle. Six inches of snow had already piled up in front of the vehicle’s blades in a matter of five minutes. We picked up Gaffar and stumbled to the next vehicle and so on till we reached the Banjara. Climbing the stairs of the Banjara was a difficult task since the wind was throwing us off- balance. The Banjara was connected to Jeevan Jyoti and all our rations were shifted in quick time. We made ourselves at home. We had a feeling that it would be a long wait before we could resume our work on the shelf.
As we went to sleep at night, the Banjara was rocking ominously in the roaring wind. It felt as if we are inside a train that is not going anywhere. The melting frost dripped on us throughout the night, as we slept fitfully.
Monday, October 6, 2008
Tobogganing on the endless snows
Call it tobogganing or just sliding around on snow, it is a new sport we have taken to at Maitri.
We started off in June, when the slopes around Priyadarshani Lake were well covered with a safe layer of snow. All traces of ice were well hidden underneath. We have 2 pairs of skis here. We connected the 2 pieces of each pair with a hinge to make a wider platform. We also had a wooden board lying around which could be used for the same purpose. This was supposedly used for tobogganing by the previous teams.
The basic requirement for tobogganing was a steep slope (steep as per the expertise of the individual), ending gently in the lake to ease one softly on the hard ice. The slopes are usually about 10 meters high. It is a simple sport and does not need much practice to master. That is the beauty of this sport. One climbs up the slope to where the snow begins. Then one places the board on the slope and lies on the board on one’s belly with face in front. Hands firmly grip the front part of the board that is raised from the ground. The elbows are kept raised till one comes to a halt. This is mandatory as one is sure to injure the elbow on the lake if they are not raised. Then we raise our feet off the ground to send us sliding down. This downward journey gives an extreme rush of adrenaline as one hurtles to the lake. Snow particles are blown all over. As soon as one hits the lake one can feel the stony hardness against the board. Inspite of being on a level surface one does not come to a halt soon. One goes on and on for a considerable distance. Sometimes the board turns 180° in the opposite direction. This is when one must keep a cool head and let the board turn without trying to correct ones course. The basic principle is not to not move till the board comes to a halt. One then picks up the board and again climbs up the slope for a repeat performance. This sport is truly addictive. The uphill climb is a great exercise and the downward journey is the thrilling part. We used to spend a lot of time at this sport even during the polar nights as one did not need to go far from the station.
Another sport that we are experimenting with is snow boarding. The same board that is used for tobogganing is used for this purpose. There is a gradual slope outside the station. It’s ideal for beginners. One just stands on the board with one foot pointing in front. The board slides gradually downwards. It requires a bit of skill to steer the snow board in the desired direction. This is a safe sport as our speed is slow and the snow is soft. In fact falling down is a lot of fun.
I also learnt a bit of ice skating during the initial part of the winters. The lake surface is not as smooth as it is on an ice skating rink. It has frozen when there were ripples on it. So what we have are frozen ripples. At places, however, the surface is smooth. But the temperature was below -15ºC and the ice skating shoes do not offer much protection at that temperature. So it was very uncomfortable for my feet which used to go numb within 20 min. I got a hold of the sport then I gave it up.
We started off in June, when the slopes around Priyadarshani Lake were well covered with a safe layer of snow. All traces of ice were well hidden underneath. We have 2 pairs of skis here. We connected the 2 pieces of each pair with a hinge to make a wider platform. We also had a wooden board lying around which could be used for the same purpose. This was supposedly used for tobogganing by the previous teams.
The basic requirement for tobogganing was a steep slope (steep as per the expertise of the individual), ending gently in the lake to ease one softly on the hard ice. The slopes are usually about 10 meters high. It is a simple sport and does not need much practice to master. That is the beauty of this sport. One climbs up the slope to where the snow begins. Then one places the board on the slope and lies on the board on one’s belly with face in front. Hands firmly grip the front part of the board that is raised from the ground. The elbows are kept raised till one comes to a halt. This is mandatory as one is sure to injure the elbow on the lake if they are not raised. Then we raise our feet off the ground to send us sliding down. This downward journey gives an extreme rush of adrenaline as one hurtles to the lake. Snow particles are blown all over. As soon as one hits the lake one can feel the stony hardness against the board. Inspite of being on a level surface one does not come to a halt soon. One goes on and on for a considerable distance. Sometimes the board turns 180° in the opposite direction. This is when one must keep a cool head and let the board turn without trying to correct ones course. The basic principle is not to not move till the board comes to a halt. One then picks up the board and again climbs up the slope for a repeat performance. This sport is truly addictive. The uphill climb is a great exercise and the downward journey is the thrilling part. We used to spend a lot of time at this sport even during the polar nights as one did not need to go far from the station.
Another sport that we are experimenting with is snow boarding. The same board that is used for tobogganing is used for this purpose. There is a gradual slope outside the station. It’s ideal for beginners. One just stands on the board with one foot pointing in front. The board slides gradually downwards. It requires a bit of skill to steer the snow board in the desired direction. This is a safe sport as our speed is slow and the snow is soft. In fact falling down is a lot of fun.
I also learnt a bit of ice skating during the initial part of the winters. The lake surface is not as smooth as it is on an ice skating rink. It has frozen when there were ripples on it. So what we have are frozen ripples. At places, however, the surface is smooth. But the temperature was below -15ºC and the ice skating shoes do not offer much protection at that temperature. So it was very uncomfortable for my feet which used to go numb within 20 min. I got a hold of the sport then I gave it up.
Melting Begins
This heralds the onset of spring in Antarctica. We can now safely say that the winters are finally over. This is supposed to be the least stressful part. The days are now longer than the nights. Dawn breaks at 2am and night falls at 8pm. So darkness is now just 6 hours long. It is already light when I retire for the night.
I had gone for a walk outside on 1st October 2008. On the way I crossed a number of lakes. At numerous places, where the lake is shallow, stones, rocks and pebbles jut out of the frozen lake surface. This time is noticed something odd about these rocks. A small depression had formed all around them. This was not present earlier. This was a sure shot sign of melting. Although the temperatures are still around -15°C, but the rocks absorb the sun’s radiation, unlike snow which reflects it. So even though the air temperature is low, the temperature of the rocks is above 0ºC. This causes the snow and ice around the rocks to melt. When the sun goes down, the temperature of the rocks goes down again and the water freezes again. This explains the depressions.
The thickness of the ice on the lakes would have started decreasing now. In the winters, it is about 2 meters and one can even drive a vehicle on it. But in another week or so, this would be dangerous. We will however be able to walk on the lakes for another one month or so. Then boating will start. This phenomenon also signifies that the days of our isolation are drawing to a close. Work has already started on the Novo runway in preparation for the 1st ALCI flight on 31st October Antarctica.
Happy days are here again. There is a fragrance of roses in the air and a spring in our feet.
I had gone for a walk outside on 1st October 2008. On the way I crossed a number of lakes. At numerous places, where the lake is shallow, stones, rocks and pebbles jut out of the frozen lake surface. This time is noticed something odd about these rocks. A small depression had formed all around them. This was not present earlier. This was a sure shot sign of melting. Although the temperatures are still around -15°C, but the rocks absorb the sun’s radiation, unlike snow which reflects it. So even though the air temperature is low, the temperature of the rocks is above 0ºC. This causes the snow and ice around the rocks to melt. When the sun goes down, the temperature of the rocks goes down again and the water freezes again. This explains the depressions.
The thickness of the ice on the lakes would have started decreasing now. In the winters, it is about 2 meters and one can even drive a vehicle on it. But in another week or so, this would be dangerous. We will however be able to walk on the lakes for another one month or so. Then boating will start. This phenomenon also signifies that the days of our isolation are drawing to a close. Work has already started on the Novo runway in preparation for the 1st ALCI flight on 31st October Antarctica.
Happy days are here again. There is a fragrance of roses in the air and a spring in our feet.
A Day at an Epi-Shelf Lake
It was picnic day today, 3rd October 2008, for the 5 of us. The GSI people were going to an epi-shelf lake at the eastern end of Schirmacher, and the 5 of us- Ramesh, Hembram, Purushottam, Kailash and me were invited to come along for an excursion. The purpose of the visit was to measure the depth of the lake, which was speculated to be more than expected.
This lake was about 15 km away from Maitri, near the Russian station, Novo. We left at 8:30am with elaborate GSI equipment and proceeded towards Novo in 2 snow mobiles, one of which was a cabin vehicle. The route to the lake bypassed Novo and went on to the ice shelf beyond it after crossing the last hills of the Schirmacher range. This lake lay where the ice shelf met the Schirmacher landmass. Hence it was an epi-shelf lake. It is one of the numerous such lakes in Schirmacher.
When we turned around the last of the hills of Schirmacher, we approached the vast, featureless expanse of the ice shelf that I have mentioned numerous times in these columns. As we approached the lake from the shelf, the vertical cliffs along the southern edge of the lake stood in attention before us like the president's bodyguard. They were steeper than anything I have seen in Schirmacher. The lake was a huge one and a very picturesque. We halted on the banks of the lake and the GSI people assembled their instrument and proceeded with their job, with one snow mobile dragging their instrument on the surface of the frozen lake. We proceeded with our sightseeing.
The edge of the lake was raised all along the edges due to the tidal action of the sea underlying the lake. Being an epi-shelf lake, it was expected to be connected to the sea. So it was subject to the tidal action of the sea, which caused the icy surface of the lake to break and be thrown up as huge blocks of ice all along the edges. This appearance can be likened to that of a pan cake, though a very irregular one. The edge of the lake was raised about 20 ft high at many places. The western part of the lake was covered with huge snow dunes. We walked across the lake to the side of the cliffs. We had to cross the raised blocks of ice at the edge. When we approached this edge, we discovered that the lake surface immediately adjacent to it was as smooth as glass. It also had a gentle slope. So it was so slippery that the only way to walk across was to crawl on our belly. But as soon as we reached the raised ice blocks, we would slide further than from where we started. We make a sport of it and soon the place was crawling with Indian polarmen sliding all around. Some caught hold of blocks of ice and we seen sliding around with them under their bellies. There was soon a competition as to who would slide the furthest. All over, there was the sound of ice breaking underneath. This is a normal feature on epi-shelf regions because of the expansion and contraction of ice. But it was scary. Finally we crossed the blocks of ice. When we did so, we saw another such accumulation of ice blocks. This means that at this edge of the lake there were 2 parallel rows of ice blocks with a clear passage between them. This passage was paved with a smooth layer of ice. But this layer was wafer thin and gave way as soon as we stepped on it. But there was a stronger layer of ice beneath. We walked along this passage with a crackling sound. As we walked on, at one place, my snow boots sank ankle deep into water. Finding water was strange for this time of the year. The only explanation was that water was seeping on the surface from the sea below, maybe because it was high tide. The glassy layer of ice I described is because of the same phenomenon. At a certain place, water could be seen flowing. We collected a sample for analysis.
We indulged in various other time pass activities like sliding on the snowy slopes of the hills. One of them was quite steep and one came down at a thrilling speed. This was quite tiring. There were a lot of interesting ice formations all over the place. We had a field day photographing them. We also brought some of them back to Maitri. The GSI experiment was over by 6pm and we left for Maitri. We finally reached back at 8pm. It was a welcome change from the routine.
Pssst.. The depth of the lake was found to be 160 meters as against the maximum of 10 meters in the other lakes of Schirmacher.
This lake was about 15 km away from Maitri, near the Russian station, Novo. We left at 8:30am with elaborate GSI equipment and proceeded towards Novo in 2 snow mobiles, one of which was a cabin vehicle. The route to the lake bypassed Novo and went on to the ice shelf beyond it after crossing the last hills of the Schirmacher range. This lake lay where the ice shelf met the Schirmacher landmass. Hence it was an epi-shelf lake. It is one of the numerous such lakes in Schirmacher.
When we turned around the last of the hills of Schirmacher, we approached the vast, featureless expanse of the ice shelf that I have mentioned numerous times in these columns. As we approached the lake from the shelf, the vertical cliffs along the southern edge of the lake stood in attention before us like the president's bodyguard. They were steeper than anything I have seen in Schirmacher. The lake was a huge one and a very picturesque. We halted on the banks of the lake and the GSI people assembled their instrument and proceeded with their job, with one snow mobile dragging their instrument on the surface of the frozen lake. We proceeded with our sightseeing.
The edge of the lake was raised all along the edges due to the tidal action of the sea underlying the lake. Being an epi-shelf lake, it was expected to be connected to the sea. So it was subject to the tidal action of the sea, which caused the icy surface of the lake to break and be thrown up as huge blocks of ice all along the edges. This appearance can be likened to that of a pan cake, though a very irregular one. The edge of the lake was raised about 20 ft high at many places. The western part of the lake was covered with huge snow dunes. We walked across the lake to the side of the cliffs. We had to cross the raised blocks of ice at the edge. When we approached this edge, we discovered that the lake surface immediately adjacent to it was as smooth as glass. It also had a gentle slope. So it was so slippery that the only way to walk across was to crawl on our belly. But as soon as we reached the raised ice blocks, we would slide further than from where we started. We make a sport of it and soon the place was crawling with Indian polarmen sliding all around. Some caught hold of blocks of ice and we seen sliding around with them under their bellies. There was soon a competition as to who would slide the furthest. All over, there was the sound of ice breaking underneath. This is a normal feature on epi-shelf regions because of the expansion and contraction of ice. But it was scary. Finally we crossed the blocks of ice. When we did so, we saw another such accumulation of ice blocks. This means that at this edge of the lake there were 2 parallel rows of ice blocks with a clear passage between them. This passage was paved with a smooth layer of ice. But this layer was wafer thin and gave way as soon as we stepped on it. But there was a stronger layer of ice beneath. We walked along this passage with a crackling sound. As we walked on, at one place, my snow boots sank ankle deep into water. Finding water was strange for this time of the year. The only explanation was that water was seeping on the surface from the sea below, maybe because it was high tide. The glassy layer of ice I described is because of the same phenomenon. At a certain place, water could be seen flowing. We collected a sample for analysis.
We indulged in various other time pass activities like sliding on the snowy slopes of the hills. One of them was quite steep and one came down at a thrilling speed. This was quite tiring. There were a lot of interesting ice formations all over the place. We had a field day photographing them. We also brought some of them back to Maitri. The GSI experiment was over by 6pm and we left for Maitri. We finally reached back at 8pm. It was a welcome change from the routine.
Pssst.. The depth of the lake was found to be 160 meters as against the maximum of 10 meters in the other lakes of Schirmacher.
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