It's finally here. The midnight sun and my second polar day. The cycle is
near completion. It was polar day when I landed in Antarctica in January.
After 13th November the sun set at around 10:30 PM and rose again before
midnight. The sun has stopped setting since the 21st November, marking the
beginning of the polar day. In meteorological terms this means that the time
for sunrise for our latitude is earlier than the scheduled time for sunset.
The sun hovers around the sky 24 hours a day. It dips in the south at night
and rises before it can set. We at Maitri cannot see the sun for a few hours
at night because it disappears behind the glacier.
I am now comfortable with this weird day and night cycle. Once the sun
rises, I expect it to stay up for a few months. The same holds good for
sunset as well. I would find it crazy if the sun rises and sets the same day
everyday. I can go out for walks any time of the day or night now. In fact
some scientists prefer to go out on field traverses at night, when it is
cooler and there is less risk of sun burn.
Sleep is never a problem. I hang a towel on my window and switch on the
lights to simulate night.
Inspite of the sun glaring down at us 24 hours, the temperature continues
to stay below zero. It rose momentarily to +1ºC on 18th November before
returning to sub zero levels again. This was the first time since February
that we experienced positive temperatures. Melting is slow for this time of
the year. The lakes have melted only at the edges. But when the sun beats
down on a clear windless day, it can be uncomfortably warm. It has created
some interesting patterns on the melting snow and ice.
Wednesday, November 26, 2008
The Long Forgotten Crowds
The second batch of the new team arrived early morning on 22 Nov 2008. They are a mixed group of scientists and logistics personnel, of both the summer and the winter team. The station suddenly wore an overcrowded look. The loneliness of just a few days back is now a thing of the past. I don't remember when I last saw so many humans. It was a strange feeling. There was no place to sit when a welcome party was organised in the evening. I was feeling like a creature from another planet.
With this batch has arrived the next batch of much awaited fresh fruits and vegetables which were distributed among members of both the old and the new teams. The newly arrived team found it amusing when something as basic as onions were being distributed. Equal distribution and the size of onion one got was a major issue. Little did they know that we have not tasted an onion for the last 10 months. Apples again found no takers. The South African apples probably don't taste as good as the Indian ones. There was also garlic, ginger, lemons and coriander up for grabs.
The temperature being around -10ºC for most part of the day, the new arrivals were dressed in full polar gear, which we found strange. But we old timers were dressed as casually as we would in the Indian summers. After all its summer time and melting of the snows is in progress. It is hot by our standards. I am desperate to find out how I would take the Delhi winter when I return home.
With this batch has arrived the next batch of much awaited fresh fruits and vegetables which were distributed among members of both the old and the new teams. The newly arrived team found it amusing when something as basic as onions were being distributed. Equal distribution and the size of onion one got was a major issue. Little did they know that we have not tasted an onion for the last 10 months. Apples again found no takers. The South African apples probably don't taste as good as the Indian ones. There was also garlic, ginger, lemons and coriander up for grabs.
The temperature being around -10ºC for most part of the day, the new arrivals were dressed in full polar gear, which we found strange. But we old timers were dressed as casually as we would in the Indian summers. After all its summer time and melting of the snows is in progress. It is hot by our standards. I am desperate to find out how I would take the Delhi winter when I return home.
Friday, November 21, 2008
A True Joint Convoy-III The Penguin Story
As we proceeded along the Russian barrier, we were welcomed by a few Adelie penguins. We had expected to find some Emperor penguins there. This was the only place close to Maitri where we could expect to see the emperor penguins. I strained myself attempting to locate the emperors. There were none in sight.
We parked our vehicles next to the Russian vehicle and started the decanting operations right away. We spotted a stray penguin close to our location. I set out after it to photograph it. But it ran away when it noticed me approaching. Initially it was waddling away on 2 legs, and then it began tobogganing on its belly. When a penguin slides on its belly, it can outrun the fastest man. It propels itself with its hind legs. Penguin footprints and belly prints were to be seen all over the place.
I spotted Sasha nearby and went to him. He told me that near the shelf there were a lot of penguins on a barrel dump. He had taken a half hour video clip there. He volunteered to take me to where the penguins were. We also took along Hukum Singh of the new team.
The penguin colony was quite filthy. It cannot be called a rookery because the Adelie penguins could not lay its eggs on ice. They need stones to make nests and lay eggs. There were about 50 Adelie penguins there. They were all stained with oil. The whole place was very noisy with the collective cry of the penguins. The cry of the penguins can be described as similar to that of a crow but in more rapid succession. One has to hear it to appreciate it. While crowing, they raise their necks high up in the air collectively. We attempted to go close to them expecting them to cower down with fright. But to our surprise, they fought back and attempted to attack us with their beaks. Their beaks were sharp enough to tear our flesh away. But they looked cute even in their anger, more so when they looked at us suspiciously out of the corner of their white rimmed eyes while we approached them. This was in sharp contrast to their behaviour when they are alone or in small groups when they run for their lives when they see humans approaching them. But in large groups, they fight back.
We noticed that the all the penguins had mates, and each pair was allotted a barrel. If anyone tried to encroach on another pair’s barrel, the other pair shooed them away. This sometimes used to lead to serious fights among the penguins. We were guilty of starting a few fights among the penguins. One penguin had dug a small pit in the snow and was collecting chunks of snow and depositing them in the pit. I felt that the penguin was probably about to lay eggs and was attempting to construct a nest. But Adelie penguins do not lay their eggs on snow. They need stones to construct their nests. They can travel 100 km to look for such places. This explains their presence at Schirmacher oasis.
There were many other penguins lolling around. I followed a solitary penguin wherever it went. It first went up the shelf, then along it, sometimes waddling, sometimes tobogganing. I kept a good distance from it so as not to disturb it. Finally it returned to the place from where it had started. It was such an anticlimax and a waste of time.
The fuel decanting continued the next day till afternoon. Thereafter we started back since the Russians were in a hurry to go back and we needed them to guide us back to the Indo- Russian junction. We followed them and reached the junction late at night. We camped there at night and completed the journey back the next day. Since the fuel was meant for the Novo runway, we dropped it off at the runway and reached the station at 9 PM on 16 Nov 08. Thus another memorable convoy came to a close.
Each convoy appears to be more or less similar. But at the same time each convoy had something totally new to offer. This is the reason I end up writing about each and every convoy. There is still a joint convoy with our new team left before we return home.
We parked our vehicles next to the Russian vehicle and started the decanting operations right away. We spotted a stray penguin close to our location. I set out after it to photograph it. But it ran away when it noticed me approaching. Initially it was waddling away on 2 legs, and then it began tobogganing on its belly. When a penguin slides on its belly, it can outrun the fastest man. It propels itself with its hind legs. Penguin footprints and belly prints were to be seen all over the place.
I spotted Sasha nearby and went to him. He told me that near the shelf there were a lot of penguins on a barrel dump. He had taken a half hour video clip there. He volunteered to take me to where the penguins were. We also took along Hukum Singh of the new team.
The penguin colony was quite filthy. It cannot be called a rookery because the Adelie penguins could not lay its eggs on ice. They need stones to make nests and lay eggs. There were about 50 Adelie penguins there. They were all stained with oil. The whole place was very noisy with the collective cry of the penguins. The cry of the penguins can be described as similar to that of a crow but in more rapid succession. One has to hear it to appreciate it. While crowing, they raise their necks high up in the air collectively. We attempted to go close to them expecting them to cower down with fright. But to our surprise, they fought back and attempted to attack us with their beaks. Their beaks were sharp enough to tear our flesh away. But they looked cute even in their anger, more so when they looked at us suspiciously out of the corner of their white rimmed eyes while we approached them. This was in sharp contrast to their behaviour when they are alone or in small groups when they run for their lives when they see humans approaching them. But in large groups, they fight back.
We noticed that the all the penguins had mates, and each pair was allotted a barrel. If anyone tried to encroach on another pair’s barrel, the other pair shooed them away. This sometimes used to lead to serious fights among the penguins. We were guilty of starting a few fights among the penguins. One penguin had dug a small pit in the snow and was collecting chunks of snow and depositing them in the pit. I felt that the penguin was probably about to lay eggs and was attempting to construct a nest. But Adelie penguins do not lay their eggs on snow. They need stones to construct their nests. They can travel 100 km to look for such places. This explains their presence at Schirmacher oasis.
There were many other penguins lolling around. I followed a solitary penguin wherever it went. It first went up the shelf, then along it, sometimes waddling, sometimes tobogganing. I kept a good distance from it so as not to disturb it. Finally it returned to the place from where it had started. It was such an anticlimax and a waste of time.
The fuel decanting continued the next day till afternoon. Thereafter we started back since the Russians were in a hurry to go back and we needed them to guide us back to the Indo- Russian junction. We followed them and reached the junction late at night. We camped there at night and completed the journey back the next day. Since the fuel was meant for the Novo runway, we dropped it off at the runway and reached the station at 9 PM on 16 Nov 08. Thus another memorable convoy came to a close.
Each convoy appears to be more or less similar. But at the same time each convoy had something totally new to offer. This is the reason I end up writing about each and every convoy. There is still a joint convoy with our new team left before we return home.
A True Joint Convoy- II The Spirit of Dakshin Gangotri
The next morning I woke up at about 6 AM. Sasha was ready with a light breakfast. I had some coffee and ham and went back to the Banjara. The Russians left soon after. Since they had to load fuel barrels before we reached the Russian barrier. We readied our vehicles, packed up the Banjara and left for the Russian barrier at about 9 AM. We were not acquainted with the route. Hence we were dependent on the GPS for the route. The route from the Indian shelf to the Russian barrier was fed into our GPSs by the leader for this convoy. The Russian barrier was about 40 km away. The journey was expected to take us 5 hours
We moved initially along our convoy route. But we turned right before point C18. Then we moved largely straight as per the GPS. Soon we were passing through an area which was flatter than any area I have seen on the shelf. There were no undulations here. There was copious amount of snow in this region. The snow was very soft. I had never witnessed such soft snow in Antarctica till now. Most of the snow I have seen was hard due to wind effects. This was so soft that the tracks of the vehicles sank in the snow.
This was the area where the Dakshin Gangotri station once was. It was an amazing feeling to pass through this area. I could vividly imagine the experiences of the wintering people at this station. It was as if I was living their experience. I could imagine a small station in the middle of nowhere on an absolutely flat, featureless piece of ice shelf, laden with snow. This place sees a blizzard every few days. Those blizzards are more ferocious than the ones at Maitri. They lead to astounding snow deposition. I could feel the depression and the loneliness that those members had once experienced in such a desolate place. It was hell. Getting lost in a blizzard in such a place was easy and led to a certain death. Incidentally, while travelling, I was reading a book “Citadel of Ice- Dakshin Gangotri” which gives an account of the first Indian wintering in Antarctica in 1983-85 by the then station commander, Brig SS Sharma. He has given such a vivid account of his experiences that it was as if I was wintering over in that era with him, more so since I was passing through the area of Dakshin Gangotri station. This was desolation at its best, or worst as one may take it. It was a strange feeling to realise that the station now lies buried 15 meters below in the ice, and that it would one day be released into the ocean with an ice berg, when the shelf breaks. To further take me back to that era, it had become cloudy and there was mild snowfall. But there was no wind. There was so much snow that I could not distinguish between the ground and the sky. Both were equally white. While driving, I felt as if I am driving in air. This was a typical white out as described in any book on Antarctica. Even if we were upside down, we would not have been able to make it out.
To further prolong my Dakshin Gangotri experience, one of the vehicles broke down. The snow was now coming down harder. Thankfully, there was no wind. Even the slightest wind would have caused a blizzard under such circumstances. The convoy team coolly went about repairing the vehicle, which took 5 hours. In the meanwhile I did some photography. I experimented with the camera settings to get the best possible photographs in such a featureless landscape. I did manage to capture the white out to my satisfaction.
The vehicle was repaired by 6 PM and then we proceeded to the Russian barrier, which was just half and hour away. We reached there at 6:30 and finally located the Russian vehicle close to the shelf edge in a depression.
We moved initially along our convoy route. But we turned right before point C18. Then we moved largely straight as per the GPS. Soon we were passing through an area which was flatter than any area I have seen on the shelf. There were no undulations here. There was copious amount of snow in this region. The snow was very soft. I had never witnessed such soft snow in Antarctica till now. Most of the snow I have seen was hard due to wind effects. This was so soft that the tracks of the vehicles sank in the snow.
This was the area where the Dakshin Gangotri station once was. It was an amazing feeling to pass through this area. I could vividly imagine the experiences of the wintering people at this station. It was as if I was living their experience. I could imagine a small station in the middle of nowhere on an absolutely flat, featureless piece of ice shelf, laden with snow. This place sees a blizzard every few days. Those blizzards are more ferocious than the ones at Maitri. They lead to astounding snow deposition. I could feel the depression and the loneliness that those members had once experienced in such a desolate place. It was hell. Getting lost in a blizzard in such a place was easy and led to a certain death. Incidentally, while travelling, I was reading a book “Citadel of Ice- Dakshin Gangotri” which gives an account of the first Indian wintering in Antarctica in 1983-85 by the then station commander, Brig SS Sharma. He has given such a vivid account of his experiences that it was as if I was wintering over in that era with him, more so since I was passing through the area of Dakshin Gangotri station. This was desolation at its best, or worst as one may take it. It was a strange feeling to realise that the station now lies buried 15 meters below in the ice, and that it would one day be released into the ocean with an ice berg, when the shelf breaks. To further take me back to that era, it had become cloudy and there was mild snowfall. But there was no wind. There was so much snow that I could not distinguish between the ground and the sky. Both were equally white. While driving, I felt as if I am driving in air. This was a typical white out as described in any book on Antarctica. Even if we were upside down, we would not have been able to make it out.
To further prolong my Dakshin Gangotri experience, one of the vehicles broke down. The snow was now coming down harder. Thankfully, there was no wind. Even the slightest wind would have caused a blizzard under such circumstances. The convoy team coolly went about repairing the vehicle, which took 5 hours. In the meanwhile I did some photography. I experimented with the camera settings to get the best possible photographs in such a featureless landscape. I did manage to capture the white out to my satisfaction.
The vehicle was repaired by 6 PM and then we proceeded to the Russian barrier, which was just half and hour away. We reached there at 6:30 and finally located the Russian vehicle close to the shelf edge in a depression.
A True Joint Convoy
This was a unique opportunity for me, and a rare one for any member of any expedition, including the convoy team. As is the norm, a joint convoy was planned with the convoy team members of the new team to acquaint them with the work during the convoy, as well as to hand over the equipment at the Indian Shore camp. Additional purpose was to tow the backloading containers to the shelf for the ship to take them back to India. But while this was being planned, we were told that we have to do a joint convoy with the Russians as well to the Russian Shelf (or the barrier as they call it and which I feel is more appropriate) to bring fuel for the ALCI flights. The Russians have been contracted for this job but they were unable to bring the entire quota required by ALCI during their convoys in the winters. Hence India has been approached to assist. This convoy was to be a joint convoy in a true sense of the word- the convoy team consisted of the old and new Indian convoy teams as well as the Russians. We were to go to our shelf as well as the Russian barrier. The entire operation was expected to take 4 days.
6 people from the old team and 4 people from the new team were to go with the convoy. There was no vacancy for me. Hence our leader tied up with the Russians for sleeping arrangements for 2 in their living module as there were sleeping arrangements for only 10 people in the Banjara. The Russians agreed and so another person from the new team was accommodated.
The plan was that we would leave Maitri at 5 AM on 13 Nov 08 and the Russians would leave at 8:30 AM as their vehicles were faster than ours. We would head for the Indian Shelf and meet the Russians enroute. We left the station as per schedule. Initially I was a co driver with Jamwal as usual, but later I was requested to give GPS training to Mr Bishnoi of the new team. Therefore, for the rest of the convoy period, I was with Mr Bishnoi and explained him the basics of navigation using the GPS. The weather was exceptionally warm this time around. The sun was uncomfortably bright. It was not possible to travel without sunglasses. The reflection from the ice made things worse. It was also very warm. We would not have been in much discomfort had we been wearing t-shirts and shorts instead of all the polar paraphernalia that we are now accustomed to. This, inspite of the air temperature of -10ºC. A few of us even lowered our dangris. This was in stark contrast to our plight when we had come to Antarctica late last summer, though at that time the temperatures were on the positive side of zero. We were all shivering down to our bones. This is the extent to which the human body can adapt.
We were all in a relaxed, happy mood. The convoy proceeded uneventfully to the Indian shelf. We finally reached the shelf at 6 PM. As soon as we reached the shelf, we noticed the Russian vehicle approaching us. They reached the Indian shelf by 6:30 PM. Since there was no period of darkness now, it was decided that we would finish unloading of backloading containers and loading of empty fuel tankers at night and leave for the Russian barrier the next day.
The Russian convoy consisted of just one vehicle, which was really huge and powerful. It was a modified T- 72 tank that is also used by the Indian Army. It was in a ramshackle condition and appeared to be on the verge of breakdown. It was tugging their living module as well as an empty container for fuel barrels. Their convoy team consisted of just 4 members, including Dr Benjamin, who has been assisting ALCI in preparing the runway during the winters for use in the summers. Dr Benjamin was fluent in English. The rest could only communicate using sign language. Alexander Sasha could also speak broken English. Most of our communication was restricted to these 2 members.
Dr Benjamin and Sasha have wintered over at various Russian Antarctic stations 3 times. Dr Benjamin, though a surgeon by profession, has switched over to the logistics branch of the Russian Arctic and Antarctic service. The Russian convoy chief has wintered over about 7 times and is the most experienced convoy team member that Russia has. He has been involved in running convoys from Russia’s Mirnyi station to Vostok about 1500 km away from the shores. This convoy takes 2 months to cover this distance, encountering temperatures in the region of -50ºC throughout. He lost 2 of his fingers due to frostbite during one such convoy. He is a very tough but jovial person, as most Russians are.
The Russian vehicles are of Soviet vintage and hence very old. They are capable of pulling 2 to 3 times more load as compared to our pisten bullys but they also require a lot of maintenance. This is evident in the poor shape of the Russian vehicles. They did most of their convoys with just 2 vehicles. The others were unserviceable. One of their vehicles is lying on our convoy route for the last 6 months. This is the reason why they were not able to bring the complete quota of fuel for ALCI. This threatens to stop the flights due to lack of fuel. Hence India was approached for help.
When they reached Indian shelf, after exchanging greetings, we told them about our plan to finish our work on the shelf at night and leave early morning the next day. Thereafter, Sasha expressed his desire to see the Indian shelf. I gladly obliged him and took him around. He was amazed by the cleanliness of our shore camp as compared to the Russian barrier. He did a lot of photography and then we returned to our vehicles. I went with Sasha to the Russian living module. It was massive. But on entering, I found it to be a dingy pigeon hole. It was very congested with poor lighting. It had accommodation for 6 people and was not very well maintained unlike our Banjara. I was told that this living module has been with Novo since 1971. I had some black coffee and snacks with the Russians and chatted up with them. I returned to Banjara with Sasha. He was interested in having tea. I served him some, but he then told me that he does not have milk or sugar. But he had the tea nonetheless and left. When our convoy team returned late at night after work, we invited the Russians over for drinks. They came over, but they are not allowed to have liquor during the convoy, especially the driver. So only Sasha had drinks. This was surprising since Russians are infamous for their voracious capacity for alcohol. We had a lovely evening with them and then they left. We had our dinner, and then I went over to the Russian living module for sleep. Sasha was put on duty to look after me, which he did well. There was a crisp, new bed linen waiting for me. I went off to sleep immediately. The rest of the Russians were already asleep. So there was no chatting. I was told that I would be woken up at 6:30 AM since the Russians were going to leave for the Russian Barrier at 7.
6 people from the old team and 4 people from the new team were to go with the convoy. There was no vacancy for me. Hence our leader tied up with the Russians for sleeping arrangements for 2 in their living module as there were sleeping arrangements for only 10 people in the Banjara. The Russians agreed and so another person from the new team was accommodated.
The plan was that we would leave Maitri at 5 AM on 13 Nov 08 and the Russians would leave at 8:30 AM as their vehicles were faster than ours. We would head for the Indian Shelf and meet the Russians enroute. We left the station as per schedule. Initially I was a co driver with Jamwal as usual, but later I was requested to give GPS training to Mr Bishnoi of the new team. Therefore, for the rest of the convoy period, I was with Mr Bishnoi and explained him the basics of navigation using the GPS. The weather was exceptionally warm this time around. The sun was uncomfortably bright. It was not possible to travel without sunglasses. The reflection from the ice made things worse. It was also very warm. We would not have been in much discomfort had we been wearing t-shirts and shorts instead of all the polar paraphernalia that we are now accustomed to. This, inspite of the air temperature of -10ºC. A few of us even lowered our dangris. This was in stark contrast to our plight when we had come to Antarctica late last summer, though at that time the temperatures were on the positive side of zero. We were all shivering down to our bones. This is the extent to which the human body can adapt.
We were all in a relaxed, happy mood. The convoy proceeded uneventfully to the Indian shelf. We finally reached the shelf at 6 PM. As soon as we reached the shelf, we noticed the Russian vehicle approaching us. They reached the Indian shelf by 6:30 PM. Since there was no period of darkness now, it was decided that we would finish unloading of backloading containers and loading of empty fuel tankers at night and leave for the Russian barrier the next day.
The Russian convoy consisted of just one vehicle, which was really huge and powerful. It was a modified T- 72 tank that is also used by the Indian Army. It was in a ramshackle condition and appeared to be on the verge of breakdown. It was tugging their living module as well as an empty container for fuel barrels. Their convoy team consisted of just 4 members, including Dr Benjamin, who has been assisting ALCI in preparing the runway during the winters for use in the summers. Dr Benjamin was fluent in English. The rest could only communicate using sign language. Alexander Sasha could also speak broken English. Most of our communication was restricted to these 2 members.
Dr Benjamin and Sasha have wintered over at various Russian Antarctic stations 3 times. Dr Benjamin, though a surgeon by profession, has switched over to the logistics branch of the Russian Arctic and Antarctic service. The Russian convoy chief has wintered over about 7 times and is the most experienced convoy team member that Russia has. He has been involved in running convoys from Russia’s Mirnyi station to Vostok about 1500 km away from the shores. This convoy takes 2 months to cover this distance, encountering temperatures in the region of -50ºC throughout. He lost 2 of his fingers due to frostbite during one such convoy. He is a very tough but jovial person, as most Russians are.
The Russian vehicles are of Soviet vintage and hence very old. They are capable of pulling 2 to 3 times more load as compared to our pisten bullys but they also require a lot of maintenance. This is evident in the poor shape of the Russian vehicles. They did most of their convoys with just 2 vehicles. The others were unserviceable. One of their vehicles is lying on our convoy route for the last 6 months. This is the reason why they were not able to bring the complete quota of fuel for ALCI. This threatens to stop the flights due to lack of fuel. Hence India was approached for help.
When they reached Indian shelf, after exchanging greetings, we told them about our plan to finish our work on the shelf at night and leave early morning the next day. Thereafter, Sasha expressed his desire to see the Indian shelf. I gladly obliged him and took him around. He was amazed by the cleanliness of our shore camp as compared to the Russian barrier. He did a lot of photography and then we returned to our vehicles. I went with Sasha to the Russian living module. It was massive. But on entering, I found it to be a dingy pigeon hole. It was very congested with poor lighting. It had accommodation for 6 people and was not very well maintained unlike our Banjara. I was told that this living module has been with Novo since 1971. I had some black coffee and snacks with the Russians and chatted up with them. I returned to Banjara with Sasha. He was interested in having tea. I served him some, but he then told me that he does not have milk or sugar. But he had the tea nonetheless and left. When our convoy team returned late at night after work, we invited the Russians over for drinks. They came over, but they are not allowed to have liquor during the convoy, especially the driver. So only Sasha had drinks. This was surprising since Russians are infamous for their voracious capacity for alcohol. We had a lovely evening with them and then they left. We had our dinner, and then I went over to the Russian living module for sleep. Sasha was put on duty to look after me, which he did well. There was a crisp, new bed linen waiting for me. I went off to sleep immediately. The rest of the Russians were already asleep. So there was no chatting. I was told that I would be woken up at 6:30 AM since the Russians were going to leave for the Russian Barrier at 7.
Wednesday, November 12, 2008
A Breath Of Fresh Air
The new team finally arrived on 6th Nov early morning. Not many people were able to sleep well that night in anticipation. Their arrival is like a breath of fresh air. I realized how stale and outdated we had become. It was like being caught in a time warp for 1 year. The station and its 26 inhabitants were the world for us. We had forgotten that there was a big, wide world beyond the endless snows, and that there are a lot of things more worthwhile than the petty bickering that the prolonged isolation in a tiny, closed society made us indulge in.
The arrival of the new team made us realize that there could be so many varying viewpoints and all could live in harmony with each other. They have injected a new energy into our lives. The world suddenly looks so much more rosy and colorful. We eagerly listen to the latest from the outside world, and about the latest movies and the general mood in the country. It is refreshing to see people wear new clothes, and bathe and shave every day. I have now recollected the smell of a deodorant. They have there tasks cut out for the summers as well as for the winters. Their enthusiasm to get on with there assigned jobs is infectious. All we from the old team can think of is about our journey back home.
In a way I was also disappointed with the summer team. A few members have been to Antarctica many times, though only in summers. They have never wintered over here. It was frustrating to realize that they view Antarctica from the blinkered viewpoint of a tourist. They have the typical ‘been there, done that’ mentality of a tourist. They are interested in the auroras and the blizzards in a very superficial manner. They do not realize that you can capture the true spirit of Antarctica only when you winter over here, and become a part of the continent, you are a partner in its fortunes and misfortunes, a citizen of the continent. One must be willing to face whatever Antarctica throws at you. It is a different ball game witnessing a blizzard from the safe environs of the station, and quite another to participate whole heartedly in ensuring the smooth running of the life support systems of the station, or going for a convoy in a raging blizzard in the knowledge that there is no other way out. There is a world of difference between being in Antarctica just for the mid winter day (though that is not possible presently) and a different ball game altogether to experience the loneliness of the polar nights and to feel the isolation overpower you. One has to be strong to maintain ones mental equilibrium and cool when someone under the effect of isolation tries to provoke you.
Some people may feel why undergo so much unnecessary suffering. True, it is a matter of choice. But the triumphant feeling one gets at the end of the wintering period is something to die for. It is unparalleled. However good I may be with words, one can never understand Antarctica until one has wintered over in this remote and icy continent. Whatever I wrote about Antarctica till date was just the tip of the iceberg. I did not have words to describe many feelings and moods. My tales from this frozen land may appear to be from grandma’s tales to many and most will not believe me when I tell them about this fantastic continent. Nor will they understand the feelings and memories behind each of my photographs and videos clips. Many will dismiss these with disdain. But Antarctica will remain within me for ever, and that is what matters.
The arrival of the new team made us realize that there could be so many varying viewpoints and all could live in harmony with each other. They have injected a new energy into our lives. The world suddenly looks so much more rosy and colorful. We eagerly listen to the latest from the outside world, and about the latest movies and the general mood in the country. It is refreshing to see people wear new clothes, and bathe and shave every day. I have now recollected the smell of a deodorant. They have there tasks cut out for the summers as well as for the winters. Their enthusiasm to get on with there assigned jobs is infectious. All we from the old team can think of is about our journey back home.
In a way I was also disappointed with the summer team. A few members have been to Antarctica many times, though only in summers. They have never wintered over here. It was frustrating to realize that they view Antarctica from the blinkered viewpoint of a tourist. They have the typical ‘been there, done that’ mentality of a tourist. They are interested in the auroras and the blizzards in a very superficial manner. They do not realize that you can capture the true spirit of Antarctica only when you winter over here, and become a part of the continent, you are a partner in its fortunes and misfortunes, a citizen of the continent. One must be willing to face whatever Antarctica throws at you. It is a different ball game witnessing a blizzard from the safe environs of the station, and quite another to participate whole heartedly in ensuring the smooth running of the life support systems of the station, or going for a convoy in a raging blizzard in the knowledge that there is no other way out. There is a world of difference between being in Antarctica just for the mid winter day (though that is not possible presently) and a different ball game altogether to experience the loneliness of the polar nights and to feel the isolation overpower you. One has to be strong to maintain ones mental equilibrium and cool when someone under the effect of isolation tries to provoke you.
Some people may feel why undergo so much unnecessary suffering. True, it is a matter of choice. But the triumphant feeling one gets at the end of the wintering period is something to die for. It is unparalleled. However good I may be with words, one can never understand Antarctica until one has wintered over in this remote and icy continent. Whatever I wrote about Antarctica till date was just the tip of the iceberg. I did not have words to describe many feelings and moods. My tales from this frozen land may appear to be from grandma’s tales to many and most will not believe me when I tell them about this fantastic continent. Nor will they understand the feelings and memories behind each of my photographs and videos clips. Many will dismiss these with disdain. But Antarctica will remain within me for ever, and that is what matters.
Thursday, November 6, 2008
The Onion Tales
The arrival of fresh food has been a windfall for us at Maitri. It has created a strange situation here- onions have become the new currency here. Onions are being traded with lemons, each onion is being consumed in partnership with 2 or 3 people who have a contract with each other. People are also looking to acquire onions from each other through ‘nefarious’ means- coax, cajole, cheat- all is fair.
My partner is Chaubeyji. We now have our dinner together so that we can share one onion among the 2 of us. We either make a vegetable or an omelette or eat it raw as salad. If the onion is too large for the 2 of us to consume, then we rope in another partner with a binding on him to return us the favour when he fishes out his onion. I managed to obtain an onion recently from My Rayudu, who did not want to eat it. It was a bonus for me as well as for Chaubeyji, and increased our bargaining power with the others. Chaubeyji also managed to get one from Gaffar. So we both can be counted as richest people in Maitri presently.
Fruits- apples and oranges are not much in demand and hence do not increase our bargaining value. They can be obtained by the dozen.
My partner is Chaubeyji. We now have our dinner together so that we can share one onion among the 2 of us. We either make a vegetable or an omelette or eat it raw as salad. If the onion is too large for the 2 of us to consume, then we rope in another partner with a binding on him to return us the favour when he fishes out his onion. I managed to obtain an onion recently from My Rayudu, who did not want to eat it. It was a bonus for me as well as for Chaubeyji, and increased our bargaining power with the others. Chaubeyji also managed to get one from Gaffar. So we both can be counted as richest people in Maitri presently.
Fruits- apples and oranges are not much in demand and hence do not increase our bargaining value. They can be obtained by the dozen.
The Last Day of Our Wintering
Today, the 5th November 2008 is a watershed day in the calendar of our expedition. It is the final day of our wintering over period. The 28th expedition members are arriving in the wee hours of 6th November. By the time this post goes online, they would already have arrived. The concluding chapter of our Antarctica saga would have begun. The only task left would be to await our date of departure from the icy continent.
It is going to be a sleepless night, as we await fresh faces and ideas and a fresh approach to life. The expected time of departure of the ALCI flight from Cape Town is 9 PM Maitri time on 5th Nov, and it would arrive here at 3AM on 6th. The reception team would leave for the airport at 1 AM, while the rest of us would wait anxiously for the arrival of the new team.
It is going to be a sleepless night, as we await fresh faces and ideas and a fresh approach to life. The expected time of departure of the ALCI flight from Cape Town is 9 PM Maitri time on 5th Nov, and it would arrive here at 3AM on 6th. The reception team would leave for the airport at 1 AM, while the rest of us would wait anxiously for the arrival of the new team.
Puddles of Water
It was a clear day today, 5th November 2008, after few days of cloudy and windy whether and one day of blizzard. So I went out for a short walk after lunch. It was a warm day at -5ºC. The first thing I noticed as I trudged through the snow deposited during the winter blizzards was that my feet sank ankle deep into the snow and left deep footprints. Walking through snow was tiring business. Just a few days back the snow was windpacked and walking on it was as easy as walking on a concrete floor. The snow also felt wet and sticky instead of the usual dry, powdery consistency that we have come to associate with Antarctica snow during the last one year.
As I walked on, I came across a few lakes. As I was attempting to cross one of them, I heard a slish slosh sound. I looked at my feet and was surprised to find myself standing in a pool of water about 1 inch deep. However, I thought that this might be an aberration and tried to move on. But at many places the situation was a same. The puddles were often covered by a thin layer of ice which cracked as soon as I stepped on it and my feet encountered water. On my way back, I came across a slope that was covered with ice. There, I noticed a tiny stream of water trickling down the slope from the lee of a stone.
This was the first time in the last 10 months that I saw water outside the station. Till now it was all snow and ice. It is now suddenly unsafe to venture out on the snow and ice. We have to tread carefully. Gone are those days of walking all over the lakes and the snows without caring to watch our step, secure in the knowledge that everything would be as hard as concrete.
The snow petrels, penguins, skuas, warm days, 24 hours daylight (sunrise- 00:58, sunset- 20:56), and now liquid water- all signs of arrival of summers are now present. Summer is now well and truly here.
As I walked on, I came across a few lakes. As I was attempting to cross one of them, I heard a slish slosh sound. I looked at my feet and was surprised to find myself standing in a pool of water about 1 inch deep. However, I thought that this might be an aberration and tried to move on. But at many places the situation was a same. The puddles were often covered by a thin layer of ice which cracked as soon as I stepped on it and my feet encountered water. On my way back, I came across a slope that was covered with ice. There, I noticed a tiny stream of water trickling down the slope from the lee of a stone.
This was the first time in the last 10 months that I saw water outside the station. Till now it was all snow and ice. It is now suddenly unsafe to venture out on the snow and ice. We have to tread carefully. Gone are those days of walking all over the lakes and the snows without caring to watch our step, secure in the knowledge that everything would be as hard as concrete.
The snow petrels, penguins, skuas, warm days, 24 hours daylight (sunrise- 00:58, sunset- 20:56), and now liquid water- all signs of arrival of summers are now present. Summer is now well and truly here.
The Penguins Visit Us
On 30th October 2008, we had 2 surprise visitors. At about 5PM, we saw 2 Adelie penguins hovering in the pump house area. They were tiny creatures, about 2 feet in height, with white rimmed eyes.
We rushed out to photograph them. As long as we were some distance away from them, they were relaxed, but as soon as we attempted to go close to them, we scared them off. They used to flap their ‘wings’ and run away. Many a times they were within touching distance. But we resisted the urge to touch them. We wanted them to spend some time with us. Soon, they were surrounded on all sides by eager Maitrians out to photograph them. We sat down in the snow with the penguins in the centre. They were standing quietly, sometimes squawking and calling out to each other. We photographed them at leisure and enjoyed each and every movement of theirs.
Their coat was splendid. It had a velvety appearance, white in front and black at the back and the face. It was shimmering in the evening sun. They also had a tiny tail, which used to twitch every now and then. We spent about an hour with the penguins. Then seeing that they were in no mood to leave, we went back to the station.
Now that the penguins have come here, they would surely have reached the penguin rookeries in Schirmacher. This is the ideal time to see them building their stone nests and follow their breeding season- the eggs, young ones.
But all said and done, Schirmacher Oasis is the grave yard of penguins. It is about 100km from the sea and there is no food available for the penguins and their young ones here. Hence once the eggs have been laid, one of the parents leaves for the ocean to get food while the other one incubates the eggs. The parent who stays back grows weak waiting for food. It then starts looking for food in the lakes of Schirmacher and once it is weak enough, it either dies of starvation, or is eaten by the skuas. The eggs and the unprotected chicks also meet the same fate. This is the order of nature and there is nothing to be done to change it. The penguins follow their instinct and come here looking for nesting sites and the skua does what it needs to survive.
Keep watching this column for more on the penguins.
We rushed out to photograph them. As long as we were some distance away from them, they were relaxed, but as soon as we attempted to go close to them, we scared them off. They used to flap their ‘wings’ and run away. Many a times they were within touching distance. But we resisted the urge to touch them. We wanted them to spend some time with us. Soon, they were surrounded on all sides by eager Maitrians out to photograph them. We sat down in the snow with the penguins in the centre. They were standing quietly, sometimes squawking and calling out to each other. We photographed them at leisure and enjoyed each and every movement of theirs.
Their coat was splendid. It had a velvety appearance, white in front and black at the back and the face. It was shimmering in the evening sun. They also had a tiny tail, which used to twitch every now and then. We spent about an hour with the penguins. Then seeing that they were in no mood to leave, we went back to the station.
Now that the penguins have come here, they would surely have reached the penguin rookeries in Schirmacher. This is the ideal time to see them building their stone nests and follow their breeding season- the eggs, young ones.
But all said and done, Schirmacher Oasis is the grave yard of penguins. It is about 100km from the sea and there is no food available for the penguins and their young ones here. Hence once the eggs have been laid, one of the parents leaves for the ocean to get food while the other one incubates the eggs. The parent who stays back grows weak waiting for food. It then starts looking for food in the lakes of Schirmacher and once it is weak enough, it either dies of starvation, or is eaten by the skuas. The eggs and the unprotected chicks also meet the same fate. This is the order of nature and there is nothing to be done to change it. The penguins follow their instinct and come here looking for nesting sites and the skua does what it needs to survive.
Keep watching this column for more on the penguins.
The Skua Story So Far
As I mentioned in one of my earlier posts, the first skua arrived on 18th Oct. The poor guy arrived alone and still continues to be alone. Since then 2 more skuas have arrived on 25th Oct. They are a pair. Skuas being territorial animals, return to the same nesting place year after year. The first skua was born at Trishul and returned at the same place. The other 2 were born at Maitri and returned here.
Lets name the first skua Shankar (since he was born near Trishul) and the other 2 skuas as Aish and Abhi since they form the perfect couple. Shankar is a loner. He is detested by Aish and Abhi. These 3 skuas are never seen together because Aish and Abhi always chase Shankar away whenever he tries to get close to them. Whenever Shankar is nearby, Aish & Abhi turn their heads skywards, spread their wings and begin to squawk at the top of their voices. Poor Shankar turns away in flight. All 3 spend a large part of their day on the snow piled up in front of Maitri. They are often seen pecking at the snow to quench their thirst. The snow is filthy with their droppings all over. At night they return to their nesting places.
Though all 3 are permanent residents of Maitri, they are still scared of us. They fly away whenever anyone tries to get too close to them.
There is another skua at the Novo runway. This one has been pampered hopelessly. There is plenty to eat & drink there and plenty of people to offer him all kinds of non veg food. Tourists adore him as he is the only living creature they are likely to see for the entire duration of their stay in Antarctica. He is fully domesticated and does not mind if people take him in their hands. We met him when we went to the runway to see of one of our team members on 1st Nov. He was at the airport last year as well.
The breeding season will start soon. But we will be back home before the young ones hatch.
Lets name the first skua Shankar (since he was born near Trishul) and the other 2 skuas as Aish and Abhi since they form the perfect couple. Shankar is a loner. He is detested by Aish and Abhi. These 3 skuas are never seen together because Aish and Abhi always chase Shankar away whenever he tries to get close to them. Whenever Shankar is nearby, Aish & Abhi turn their heads skywards, spread their wings and begin to squawk at the top of their voices. Poor Shankar turns away in flight. All 3 spend a large part of their day on the snow piled up in front of Maitri. They are often seen pecking at the snow to quench their thirst. The snow is filthy with their droppings all over. At night they return to their nesting places.
Though all 3 are permanent residents of Maitri, they are still scared of us. They fly away whenever anyone tries to get too close to them.
There is another skua at the Novo runway. This one has been pampered hopelessly. There is plenty to eat & drink there and plenty of people to offer him all kinds of non veg food. Tourists adore him as he is the only living creature they are likely to see for the entire duration of their stay in Antarctica. He is fully domesticated and does not mind if people take him in their hands. We met him when we went to the runway to see of one of our team members on 1st Nov. He was at the airport last year as well.
The breeding season will start soon. But we will be back home before the young ones hatch.
Sunday, November 2, 2008
Isolation Ends
1 November 2008 marks the beginning of the summer season for us at Maitri and all other stations in Dronning Maudland. The first ALCI flight has landed at 3 AM on that day. It was scheduled for 31st Oct, but the time was not certain. We received a call from Novo at 9 PM on 31st Oct that the flight has taken off from Cape Town and will land at 3 AM on 1st Nov. With the arrival of the first ALCI flight, our 7 month long isolation has ended.
The return flight out of Antarctica was tentatively scheduled for 2nd Nov but at 9 AM on 1st Nov, Novo informed as that the flight has been preponed for take off at 12:30 PM on 1st Nov because bad weather was expected the next day.
Our deinduction has started with the departure of the flight as my fellow medical officer at Maitri has started his journey back to India on that flight. 7 of us had gone to see him off at the Novo runway. It was a very happy experience for me. On my way to the runway, I was thinking of the time when I will make my last trip out of Schirmacher Oasis at the time of my deinduction. It will be a very emotional moment indeed and is just a month away. Our conversation on the way centered on Cape Town and the blast we would have there.
At the runway, we met the incoming summer team for the German Antarctic Station, Neumayer and chatted up with them. It was certainly very refreshing to see some fresh faces and exchange greetings with them. The fresh, cheerful and enthusiastic members of incoming teams were a stark contrast to the bedraggled appearance of the wintering people, with the strain of wintering over in Antarctica clearly visible on their faces. It was nice to meet people who have just arrived from the civilised world. We were feeling and probably looking like tribals in comparison.
We also met Jim, the pilot of the Basilar MIA aircraft that was to transport the German team to Neumayer, but were stuck up due to bad weather at Neumayer. He had taken a circuitous route to Novo runway because the aircraft is meant for small distances. It had arrived here from Punta Arenas in Chile via Bellingshausen (Russian Station on the peninsula), Rothera (British Station on Antarctica peninsula), Halley (British station on west coast of Weddel Sea) and Neumayer.
Ralf, the meteorologist and forecaster from the Neumayer station has also arrived. He is responsible for giving weather forecasts for Dronning Maudland during the summer season mainly to assist flight operations. He sent us his first weather report to us on 1st Nov.
The flight to Cape Town finally took off at 2 PM. There was a curious crowd of on lookers photographing the IL 76 as it took off. I took an invaluable video of an aircraft taking off on an icy runway, billowing snow all around as it moved. I saw the aircraft long after it was well out of sight, dreaming about the day when the same aircraft would transport me out of Antarctica.
The return flight out of Antarctica was tentatively scheduled for 2nd Nov but at 9 AM on 1st Nov, Novo informed as that the flight has been preponed for take off at 12:30 PM on 1st Nov because bad weather was expected the next day.
Our deinduction has started with the departure of the flight as my fellow medical officer at Maitri has started his journey back to India on that flight. 7 of us had gone to see him off at the Novo runway. It was a very happy experience for me. On my way to the runway, I was thinking of the time when I will make my last trip out of Schirmacher Oasis at the time of my deinduction. It will be a very emotional moment indeed and is just a month away. Our conversation on the way centered on Cape Town and the blast we would have there.
At the runway, we met the incoming summer team for the German Antarctic Station, Neumayer and chatted up with them. It was certainly very refreshing to see some fresh faces and exchange greetings with them. The fresh, cheerful and enthusiastic members of incoming teams were a stark contrast to the bedraggled appearance of the wintering people, with the strain of wintering over in Antarctica clearly visible on their faces. It was nice to meet people who have just arrived from the civilised world. We were feeling and probably looking like tribals in comparison.
We also met Jim, the pilot of the Basilar MIA aircraft that was to transport the German team to Neumayer, but were stuck up due to bad weather at Neumayer. He had taken a circuitous route to Novo runway because the aircraft is meant for small distances. It had arrived here from Punta Arenas in Chile via Bellingshausen (Russian Station on the peninsula), Rothera (British Station on Antarctica peninsula), Halley (British station on west coast of Weddel Sea) and Neumayer.
Ralf, the meteorologist and forecaster from the Neumayer station has also arrived. He is responsible for giving weather forecasts for Dronning Maudland during the summer season mainly to assist flight operations. He sent us his first weather report to us on 1st Nov.
The flight to Cape Town finally took off at 2 PM. There was a curious crowd of on lookers photographing the IL 76 as it took off. I took an invaluable video of an aircraft taking off on an icy runway, billowing snow all around as it moved. I saw the aircraft long after it was well out of sight, dreaming about the day when the same aircraft would transport me out of Antarctica.
The Luxury of Fresh Food
We had come to the Novo runway to see off one of our wintering members on 1st Nov when the ALCI people sprang a pleasant surprise on us. They informed us that there was some cargo for us that had come with the first flight from Cape Town. To our delight we discovered that the cargo consisted of fresh fruits and vegetables, something we have been starved of for the last 8 months. We were fed up of eating the tasteless frozen food that is already one year old. We used to eat just to survive. This was a bonanza for us.
On our return to the station, we opened the boxes to find carrots, green apples, oranges twice the sized we get in India, lemons 4 times the normal size, green chillies, coriander leaves, onions and broccoli. All the expedition members had gathered around the boxes and were already drooling at the sight. Some of us even photographed the eatables, some even going to the extent of posing with the booty. We were told that the cost of importing these eatables was 10 times the actual cost of each item. That made it all the more precious.
Later on the eatables were distributed among the team members. Each on of us got 2 apples, one carrot, one huge onion and one huge lemon. The rest of the stuff was handed over to Narayan Singh, our cook. One can never think of such excitement at the sight of a humble, commonplace vegetable like an onion as was seen here. We had a gala time at dinner. There was a lot of salad around. Onion and carrot salad with lemon, green chillies and salt and pepper- that was my dinner and the stuff had never tasted better. But it left me with an upset tummy probably because I am no longer accustomed to eating anything fresh or maybe it was the effect of an excess of green chillies. The taste of the fruits and the vegetables still lingers in my mouth as I write this.
This was the first instalment of the goodies we expect in the coming days.
On our return to the station, we opened the boxes to find carrots, green apples, oranges twice the sized we get in India, lemons 4 times the normal size, green chillies, coriander leaves, onions and broccoli. All the expedition members had gathered around the boxes and were already drooling at the sight. Some of us even photographed the eatables, some even going to the extent of posing with the booty. We were told that the cost of importing these eatables was 10 times the actual cost of each item. That made it all the more precious.
Later on the eatables were distributed among the team members. Each on of us got 2 apples, one carrot, one huge onion and one huge lemon. The rest of the stuff was handed over to Narayan Singh, our cook. One can never think of such excitement at the sight of a humble, commonplace vegetable like an onion as was seen here. We had a gala time at dinner. There was a lot of salad around. Onion and carrot salad with lemon, green chillies and salt and pepper- that was my dinner and the stuff had never tasted better. But it left me with an upset tummy probably because I am no longer accustomed to eating anything fresh or maybe it was the effect of an excess of green chillies. The taste of the fruits and the vegetables still lingers in my mouth as I write this.
This was the first instalment of the goodies we expect in the coming days.
Saturday, November 1, 2008
The Summer Camp Preparations
We have now started preparing for the coming summers in right earnest, and along with it for our return back home.
The first batch of 15 members of the 28th Indian Scientific Expedition to Antarctica is scheduled to arrive on 5th Nov. Hence the preparation of the summer camp is in full swing. Snow has been cleared from inside and in front of the living accommodation and the toilets. The emergency medical supplies will soon be moved from the Annapurna hut, which serves as a refreshment hut for the summer team. The Dodabeta hut, which is the recreation hut for the summer team, too will be cleared soon. All these tasks would have been accomplished by the time this blog is posted.
Our containers with material to be back loaded to India are now ready and have been shifted to Sankalp. They will be taken to the shelf in the joint convoy with the next team.
Work is going on at full swing at the airport as well. The Novo team is on the job. The runway is being smoothened out, the cafeteria and the living accommodation tents are being put up. The first incoming flight is scheduled for 31st October, and the first outgoing flight leaves on 2nd November. We are expected to have a few international guests, mostly scientists in the summers.
There is no period of darkness here now. On 30 Oct 2008, the sun rose at 1:37am and set at 8:16pm. There is no period of darkness now. Dusk is followed by dawn at about 11pm. The sun is shining brightly by the time I go to bed. Though we are five and a half hours behind IST, here the sun rises earlier than it does in India.
Time really flies in Antarctica. I feel as if I came to Antarctica just a few weeks back, but the whole year has passed by. These last few days are difficult to pass and we are all eagerly awaiting our return flight in December. Each day counts now. But before that, the lively and busy summer season awaits us.
The first batch of 15 members of the 28th Indian Scientific Expedition to Antarctica is scheduled to arrive on 5th Nov. Hence the preparation of the summer camp is in full swing. Snow has been cleared from inside and in front of the living accommodation and the toilets. The emergency medical supplies will soon be moved from the Annapurna hut, which serves as a refreshment hut for the summer team. The Dodabeta hut, which is the recreation hut for the summer team, too will be cleared soon. All these tasks would have been accomplished by the time this blog is posted.
Our containers with material to be back loaded to India are now ready and have been shifted to Sankalp. They will be taken to the shelf in the joint convoy with the next team.
Work is going on at full swing at the airport as well. The Novo team is on the job. The runway is being smoothened out, the cafeteria and the living accommodation tents are being put up. The first incoming flight is scheduled for 31st October, and the first outgoing flight leaves on 2nd November. We are expected to have a few international guests, mostly scientists in the summers.
There is no period of darkness here now. On 30 Oct 2008, the sun rose at 1:37am and set at 8:16pm. There is no period of darkness now. Dusk is followed by dawn at about 11pm. The sun is shining brightly by the time I go to bed. Though we are five and a half hours behind IST, here the sun rises earlier than it does in India.
Time really flies in Antarctica. I feel as if I came to Antarctica just a few weeks back, but the whole year has passed by. These last few days are difficult to pass and we are all eagerly awaiting our return flight in December. Each day counts now. But before that, the lively and busy summer season awaits us.
Your Touch Sends Shivers Down My Spine
This phenomenon is certainly a number one irritant. It is like a computer virus, that comes up unannounced, is capable of causing extensive damage and one can never quite get rid of it permanently. One has to constantly run antiviruses to remove it. But it comes back again.
I am talking about the static charge. It has assumed epidemic proportions in Antarctica. We expect anything we touch to give a powerful shock. Human touch, door handles, walls, taps, tables, cupboards, clothes- anything. We gingerly touch- or rather, tap anything we are about to touch to minimize the shock and to discharge ourselves. Static charge can be so strong that sometimes sparks have been seen flying between 2 hands about to be shaken. We truly have an “electrifying” atmosphere here.
But static charge is not so benign. It has ruined and continues to play havoc with any electronic equipment at Maitri. Computers have borne the brunt of the scourge. Many have been ruined beyond local repair and have to be sent back to India for repairs or for replacement. CDs, pendrives, music systems, DVD players, and floppy discs- nothing is spared. My laptop has not been spared either. Its internal speakers have gone phut sometime back. Scientific laboratories are the most high risk areas. Any damage to the computers there due to static charge could mean loss of valuable scientific data for the whole year- data for which the international scientific community waits for one year.
Extensive earthing has to be done to prevent static charge. There are grounded copper wires all over the areas where computers are present. One has to touch these wires and discharge oneself before touching a computer. Not once, but every time one touches a computer even in the same sitting.
A few of the telephone instruments here have been damaged recently. So the door of the communication room and the table on which the telephone instrument is kept has been earthed completely so that an individual entering the communication room is discharged as soon as he enters. I have a copper wire hanging in my room from the fire alarm cables on the roof. It is like a “ghanta”. I pull it every time I am about to touch my computer. I don’t allow anyone to touch my computer. There are lots of invaluable photographs and videos on it.
The cause of high incidence of static charge in Antarctica is not yet clear. Some attribute it to extremely low humidity and others to the earth’s magnetic field. Meanwhile, the destruction continues…..
I am talking about the static charge. It has assumed epidemic proportions in Antarctica. We expect anything we touch to give a powerful shock. Human touch, door handles, walls, taps, tables, cupboards, clothes- anything. We gingerly touch- or rather, tap anything we are about to touch to minimize the shock and to discharge ourselves. Static charge can be so strong that sometimes sparks have been seen flying between 2 hands about to be shaken. We truly have an “electrifying” atmosphere here.
But static charge is not so benign. It has ruined and continues to play havoc with any electronic equipment at Maitri. Computers have borne the brunt of the scourge. Many have been ruined beyond local repair and have to be sent back to India for repairs or for replacement. CDs, pendrives, music systems, DVD players, and floppy discs- nothing is spared. My laptop has not been spared either. Its internal speakers have gone phut sometime back. Scientific laboratories are the most high risk areas. Any damage to the computers there due to static charge could mean loss of valuable scientific data for the whole year- data for which the international scientific community waits for one year.
Extensive earthing has to be done to prevent static charge. There are grounded copper wires all over the areas where computers are present. One has to touch these wires and discharge oneself before touching a computer. Not once, but every time one touches a computer even in the same sitting.
A few of the telephone instruments here have been damaged recently. So the door of the communication room and the table on which the telephone instrument is kept has been earthed completely so that an individual entering the communication room is discharged as soon as he enters. I have a copper wire hanging in my room from the fire alarm cables on the roof. It is like a “ghanta”. I pull it every time I am about to touch my computer. I don’t allow anyone to touch my computer. There are lots of invaluable photographs and videos on it.
The cause of high incidence of static charge in Antarctica is not yet clear. Some attribute it to extremely low humidity and others to the earth’s magnetic field. Meanwhile, the destruction continues…..
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