Anatomy of an Antarctic Convoy- III (The Journey on the Ice Shelf)

Also read: A Trip into Antarctica Wilderness-II

A Trip into Antarctica Wilderness- III

The Convoy Route

The convoy route was marked after extensive airborne recce during the 1980s and runs along the Russian convoy route for the most part. It was initially marked using oil barrels placed every kilometre or so. But as technology developed, the route was tracked using the GPS. The barrels were named as A1, A2 and so one. The A series started after we crossed the Russian junction, where our route met the Russian convoy route (the Russian Antarctic Station, Novolazarevskaya was 3-4 km away from Maitri). After reaching A6 or A7, we began a gradual descent down to the ice cap onto the ice shelf, the continuation of the continental ice cap onto the ocean. We crossed a number of nunataks (rocky mountain peaks poking out of the ice cap) on the way. This is where we hit the vast, featureless ice shelf- a never ending field of ice stretching out in all directions, interspersed by numerous crevasses lurking beneath thin sheets of snow waiting to gobble up men & machine.

A Nunatak at Barrel Point A5

This is isolation at its best- or worst. Getting stranded here implies a 0% chance of survival.
The shelf was also riddled with numerous lakes, formed by collection of ice melt water in low lying areas. These lakes could not be differentiated from ice because of similar colour of the two. One could drive into these lakes unknowingly. The only way to make out the presence of these lakes was from air. The lakes are not a problem during the winters, when they melt during the summers, they make convoy operations unsafe. There were two such lakes at barrel points A20, after which there was a gradual ascent. This ascent was an uneven, crevasse ridden area. This was the bumpiest ride of the trip. At B7 lay a battered Basler aircraft that had slid off the Russian trailer while it was being towed from the Novo runway to the Russian Barrier. There was also an assortment of Russian vehicles that had broken down on the way. They provided welcome relief from the monotony of the whiteness all around.

The Indian Convoy on the Ice Shelf

As the convoy rumbled on in frigid conditions, we reached point C7. This was where the Indian & Russian convoy routes separated again. This was also where one could find snow accumulated on the ice. We were close to the coast now. Progress was slow because of the snow. The barrels were now placed further and further apart, often as much as 5km. but the route was dead straight. This was monotonous landscape and monotonous driving at its best.

The Ruined Basler Aircraft at B7

The snow accumulation increased as we neared the coast. No ice could be seen anywhere, unlike the more inland regions. Finally, after a minimum of 15 hours journey from Maitri, we reached the Indian Coastal Camp at the edge of the ice shelf, covering a distance of 120 km. it was usually 8 PM by the time we arrived.